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Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
(Shinzo Abe's) Third Arrow T 
Bad Finger Couloir, The 
Bib (1st Apron), The T 
Black and White T 
Concrete Shoes Won't Help Ya In Da River 
Crystal Couloir 
Diamond Couloir 
Far Right Dihedral (2nd Apron) T 
Ghost, The T 
Goldfinger Couloir 
Iration T 
Lazy Is As Lazy Does T 
Mount Evans Micro Goulotte 
North Face Crag 
North Face Snowfield 
Northwest Couloir T 
Road Less Warren 
Road, The 
Shooting Star T 
Silhouette T 
Snave Direct, The T 
Snave, The 
Snorkmaiden's Surprise 
Sunrise Couloir T 
Tike's Trike T 
Unsorted Routes:

Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 14,264'
Location: 39.5886, -105.643 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 18,028
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: ClimbandMine on Nov 30, 1999
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BETA PHOTO: Mt. Evans North Wall as 2009-06-29.


The Summit Lake bowl offers some fine alpine ice and rock routes topping out at or near 14,000'. Summer T-storms are the biggest danger. Easy access is limited to June-September by the closure of the Mt. Evans highway. It's a long hike up the road or Chicago Lakes basin the rest of the year.

There are some other options up in the Chicago Lakes basin which are accessed from Echo Lake.

Getting There 

Drive up I-70 to Idaho Springs. Take the Mt. Evans highway to the Echo Lake. Take a right at the Echo Lake Lodge, and follow the summit road to Summit Lake. The main bowl just below the summit offers easy ice/snow climbs and has the potential for some mixed routes just below the summit if conditions are right. This is accessed by hiking around the south side of Summit Lake and up the slope into the bowl. The Aprons are west of the Lake - First Apron is northwest, Second is due west, and Third is southwest just right of the bowl. Mt. Spaulding is accessed by dropping down to upper Chicago Lakes basin, north of Summit Lake.

For the Chicago Lake basin options, park at Echo Lake, take a trail off the I-70 side of the lake dropping down into the drainage of Chicago Lakes and go up the valley past the Idaho Springs Reservoir and higher up.

Climbing Season

Weather station 4.8 miles from here

26 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',15],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs:
The Road   WI3 M4     Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 5 pitches, 900'   
Goldfinger Couloir   PG13     Alpine, 500'   
(Shinzo Abe's) Third Arrow   WI4 M5     Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 4 pitches, 600'   
Snorkmaiden's Surprise   WI3 M4     Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 900'   
Concrete Shoes Won't Help Ya In Da River   WI4- M4+     Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 3 pitches, 900'   
Crystal Couloir        Alpine, 1420'   
Telepherique   M1-2     Mixed, Alpine, 2 pitches, 250'   
North Face Snowfield        Alpine, 1420'   
The Snave   4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b WI2-     Ice, Alpine, 1420'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs

Featured Route For Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs
Rock Climbing Photo: The last pitch.  Photo: Josh Thompson.

Black and White WI4-5 M5-6  Colorado : CO Ice & Mixed : Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs
This route has it all: steep ice, strenuous drytooling, and fantastic, narrow, icy runnels, all in a wild setting.1) From the snowfield at the base of the raps, follow the rightmost corner. This starts as a turfy ramp and leads to a huge chockstone cave. Exit this cave on the right side with well-protected strenuous moves and follow the chimney to a spike belay after 160 feet or so, before the chimney steepens again, M5/6.2) Continue up the steepening icy chimney to a ledgy system and follow icy...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

Photos of Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Summit Lake Cirque.  Pink - Lazy is Lazy Does....
BETA PHOTO: The Summit Lake Cirque. Pink - Lazy is Lazy Does....
Rock Climbing Photo: A bit of ice, right of The Road.
A bit of ice, right of The Road.
Rock Climbing Photo: Rock across the valley from The Road.
Rock across the valley from The Road.
Rock Climbing Photo: A bit of ice, across from The Road, in the sun.
A bit of ice, across from The Road, in the sun.

Comments on Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs Add Comment
Show which comments
By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Nov 23, 2011
We hiked in to attempt The Road today.

The recent wind storms have done SERIOUS damage to the forest leading in from Echo Lake. The trail is completely covered...almost not followable. Even so, it is a serious effort to get into Chicago Lakes with the current blow down. It's quite impressive though!

By Taylor-B.
From: Valdez, AK
Jul 9, 2012
On the same buttress you can yo-yo Iration, Mount Evans Mini-Micro Goulotte, and Snorkmaiden's Surprise for a 4 STAR day!

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