Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Mt. Elden Crags

Select Area...
Elysian Buttress 
Lost Elden 
Middle Elden Canyon 
Oaklands 
One Wall, The 
Red Dragon 
Sawyer Wall 
Secret Canyon 
Solitude Canyon 
West Elden 

Mt. Elden Crags Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 9,299'
Location: 35.2429, -111.6048 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 63,670
Administrators: Greg Opland, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Will Cobb on Apr 20, 2006
Forecast:
Tonight

20°
Thursday

39° | 24°
Friday

43° | 29°
Saturday

43° | 27°
Sunday

40° | 26°
Monday

44° | 28°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Found this cool shot of Mt. Elden online. Furthest...

Description 

Sitting just north of Flagstaff, Mt. Elden is marked by radio towers and a fire watch tower on top and by the large burn scar on it's southeastern and eastern slopes. Composed of Dacite, Mt. Elden has great bouldering, fun cragging, and even a few multiple pitch climbs of good quality. The rock tends to be sharp and rough providing great friction and the perfect Joshua Tree training ground.

Rock Climbing Photo: J.Snyder on the possible FFA of Lost Elden Crack P...
J.Snyder on the possible FFA of Lost Elden Crack
Photo: Jeff Deikis


"Mt. Elden dominates many of the views from town, and as such the daydreams of many local climbers. Home to well established oldschool areas such as West Elden and Secret Canyon, it has in the last decade also brought to town a very unique style of sport climbing. The newer crags like Solitude Canyon, Red Dragon, and the One Wall boast some truly excellent pitches on priceless formations where a climber can expect to find every sort of hold imaginable.

Rock Climbing Photo: JJ Schlick on an early send of Solitaire. 2009  Wa...
JJ Schlick on an early send of Solitaire. 2009

Wade Forrest photo


The areas themselves are spread out across the southern flanks of the mountain with considerable distance in between them. The actual cliff aspects cover every range, so there can be quite a bit of sun/shade searching throughout the seasons, and in light years climbable all year round.

Rock Climbing Photo: Moe Jorgan sending Pabst Trap, way up at the strik...
Moe Jorgan sending Pabst Trap, way up at the striking One Wall.


Mt. Elden was formed about 50,000 years ago in the course of several months, and is technically a 'lava dome' formed of Dacitic lava flows. There was never an explosion, rather an out pouring of flows along lateral vents. Which simply means that the crags we climb on today were once huge flows of lava slowly oozing from the mound. Evidence of these flows can be seen on top of many of crags and elsewhere on the mountain in very cool waves and fins.

Rock Climbing Photo: Paul Davidson on the FA of Retirement Crack in the...
Paul Davidson on the FA of Retirement Crack in the late 1970's, at West Elden.


There are a lot of nooks and crannies to explore on Elden, so have fun!"



Rock Climbing Photo: Wintery conditions on The Elysian Buttress, Mt. El...
Wintery conditions on The Elysian Buttress, Mt. Elden's "premiere" multi pitch venue.

Getting There 

Mt. Elden is located just north of Flagstaff. Highways 180 and 89A are used to access the climbing areas. Approaches vary from several minutes o 45 minutes.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.1 miles from here

201 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',11],['3 Stars',107],['2 Stars',68],['1 Star',14],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',6],['5.7',7],['5.8',10],['5.9',11],['5.10',39],['5.11',56],['5.12',43],['5.13',15],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',2],['V4-5',9],['V6-7',2],['V8-9',1],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Mt. Elden Crags

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Mt. Elden Crags:
Zit Slab   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   West Elden : Uptown
Right Deception Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   West Elden : Uptown
Elysian Buttress Original Route   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 5 pitches, 450'   Elysian Buttress
Where Eagles Dare   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Secret Canyon : Kodachrome Spire/Area
Man On the Moon   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 4 pitches, 350'   Higher Solitude : Main Wall
La Diosa    5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   West Elden : Downtown
Thunderbird Arête    5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Higher Solitude : Main Wall
Lucky Old Sun   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Higher Solitude : Main Wall
Twilight Zone   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   West Elden : Downtown
Mechanical Persistence   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 4 pitches, 400'   Elysian Buttress
Broad Axe   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Higher Solitude : Main Wall
Sporting the Line   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Oaklands
Solitaire   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Higher Solitude : Main Wall
Runaway Train   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Oaklands
Modest Mouse   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   Solitude Canyon : Solitude Wall
Bobcat Martini   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Red Dragon
Continental Drift   5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Higher Solitude : Main Wall
Crown Jewel   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   Red Dragon
The Black Solitaire   5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Higher Solitude : Main Wall
The Hermit   5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Higher Solitude : Main Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Mt. Elden Crags

Featured Route For Mt. Elden Crags
Rock Climbing Photo: The top of Bold is Love. The Prow can be seen in t...

Bold is Love 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c  AZ : Northern Arizona : ... : Uptown
Start ten feet right of the initially dirty, mossy crack system, on a flake jug on the face. Climb good, slabby features left and up to the crack system previously mentioned. Climb a few moves up the low angle wide crack(beware of your rope falling into a slot just above), then angle slightly left up the slabby dihedral with a seam that offers some protection just before a ledge is encountered on your left. Use the ledge, or not, and continue up the crack line that leads to the steep, striking p...[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

Photos of Mt. Elden Crags Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tiny Horned Toad found on the approach
Tiny Horned Toad found on the approach
Rock Climbing Photo: The Radio Fire on Mt Elden (1978).
The Radio Fire on Mt Elden (1978).
Rock Climbing Photo: Some Mt. Elden pockets found on a boulder problem....
Some Mt. Elden pockets found on a boulder problem....
Rock Climbing Photo: Mt. Elden topo and some of the areas.
BETA PHOTO: Mt. Elden topo and some of the areas.
Rock Climbing Photo: Many of Elden's climbing areas can be seen in this...
Many of Elden's climbing areas can be seen in this...

Comments on Mt. Elden Crags Add Comment
Show which comments
By Todd Savoy
From: Flagstaff
Mar 2, 2010
Howdy! Does anyone have any info on Secret Canyon? I've got a copy of "A Cheap Way to Fly" but it kinda only scratches the surface. Thanks!
By Garrett Jones
Dec 19, 2014
Hey everyone I went climbing here over this summer and i lost my wedding ring . Its a black wedding ring. I never took it off till i started climbing and i slipped off grip and my wedding ring was stuck, thought my finger was going to get skinned. I have always put it on a carabiner and haven't lost it until now. So if anyone sees this i am pretty frustrated and would give just about anything to have it back. I have torn my house apart and have found nothing and i am missing a carabiner(always buy everything in sets of 8 so i can be sure i keep track of my counts)
I am going out this week to look and if i can find a metal detector ill be looking there too.
Ill be posting this in the forum so if this is the wrong place just delete it.