REI Community
search
Advanced
Mt. Clarence King

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
East Face - Ramp Route T 
East Ridge Indirect T 
North East Ridge (full) T 

Mt. Clarence King Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 12,905'
Location: 36.8333, -118.4465 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 6,249
Administrators: Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Chris Owen on Jul 13, 2007
Forecast:
Tonight

32°
Thursday

49° | 27°
Friday

44° | 22°
Saturday

44° | 27°
Sunday

48° | 30°
Monday

48° | 30°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
Mt Clarence King from 60 lakes basin.

Description 

One of the Sierra's greatest peaks is aptly named after the famous Victorian USGS explorer and author.

Remote and windswept with no walk up, the quintessential High Sierra peak and scene of one of the hardest US climbs of the 19th century - Bolton Brown's South Face Route (I 5.4) which is also the descent.

The summit consists of a tricky little block overhanging the abyss - classic.


Getting There 

This hike is more than an approach; it's a journey unto itself.

Day 1: Hike from Onion Valley (from 395 at Independence) over Kearsarge Pass and down to Charlotte Lake.

Day 2: Take the old shortcut trail (see an old Starr's Guide) from Charlotte Lake to Glen Pass, with wonderful views of the Brewer Group. Descend down the Rae Lakes trail but at the bottom of the pass head NW cross country and over Rae Col and into the magical Sixty Lake Basin, and soon hit the trail from Rae Lakes, follow it for a mile or so deeper into the basin, then scout out a campsite.

On the way out it may be better to take the Sixty Lake Basin Trail past Fin Dome and into Rae Lakes Basin, thence over Glen Pass, Kearsarge Pass, and so to Onion Valley. I've done the hike out in one day a couple of times, so it's doable (about 20 miles).

Climbing Season

For the 10 - Kearsarge Pass to Cedar Grove area.

Weather station 13.3 miles from here

3 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',2],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Mt. Clarence King
Rock Climbing Photo: Fred close to the end of the first pitch.

East Face - Ramp Route 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  California : High Sierra : ... : Mt. Clarence King
A committing route because of its remote location.Up snow to the beginning of the ramp.P1-2 (5.8) Climb the ramp using cracks in the corner and later traversing right to the edge.P3-5 (Class 3) Pitches heading for the summit exit cracks and ending at a sandy ledge where the face steepens.P6-8 (5.8) There seem to be choices. Climb steep but well-protected cracks which lead to the east ridge.The summit block has its moments - so suck up and go.Solo down the Bolton Brown (South Face) Route (5.4). ...[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of Mt. Clarence King Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mt. King from the southeast - with cumulus clouds.
Mt. King from the southeast - with cumulus clouds.
Rock Climbing Photo: Rae Lakes, Cotter, and King seen from North Dragon...
Rae Lakes, Cotter, and King seen from North Dragon...
Rock Climbing Photo: Shortcut from Charlotte Lake to Glen Pass.
BETA PHOTO: Shortcut from Charlotte Lake to Glen Pass.
Rock Climbing Photo: Fred Batliner at the bottom after a descent of the...
Fred Batliner at the bottom after a descent of the...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mt. Brewer and North Guard seen from the approach ...
Mt. Brewer and North Guard seen from the approach ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Fin Dome seen from Mt. King.
Fin Dome seen from Mt. King.
Rock Climbing Photo: Sixty Lake Basin environs.
Sixty Lake Basin environs.
Rock Climbing Photo: Routes on Mt. Clarence King
BETA PHOTO: Routes on Mt. Clarence King

Comments on Mt. Clarence King Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · People · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About