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Mt Carillon

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SouthEast ridge Direct T 
Southeast Ridge indirect T 
West ridge Direct T 
West Ridge indirect T 

Mt Carillon Rock Climbing 

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Elevation: 13,552'
Location: 36.59242, -118.27794 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,148
Administrators: Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: kenr on Aug 16, 2014
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Access limited from May to October every year MORE INFO >>>


A rocky peak with at least one easy approach (from the SW). Great views of all the high peaks of the southern Sierra peaks, and down to Tulainyo Lake. It is about 0.6 mile / 1km east of the famous climbing peak of Mt Russell, and 1.2 miles / 2km northeast from Mt Whitney.

The West ridge can be a fun addition after descending to Russell-Carillon col (lat long ~ N36.5915 W118.2817) from a famous route on Mt Russell.

One guidebook also reports a long moderate route on the E face, and an easy route on the NE ridge.
The easiest way to the summit is from the WSW, at first on sand and talus, finishing with a scramble (class 2 or maybe 3).

A satellite of this peak with three moderate routes is the Impala -- near the bottom of the SE ridge of Carillon.
. . (though it is not easy to find any report of the difficulty of climbing up the long SE ridge of Carillon)

Permit required: Most routes on this peak require a USFS wilderness permit for either single-day or overnight use. The permit can be requested in advance in January, or sometimes permits are available the day before by walking into the Mt Whitney Visitors Center just south of Lone Pine - (only available at this center, not at any other USFS centers along the Eastside Sierra).

Getting There 

Usually reached by starting at the Whitney Portal trailhead and going up the unmarked climbers track (3rd class) up North Fork Lone Pine Creek to somewhere above Lower Boy Scout Lake, then leaving the track to its north side toward the desired climbing route.
. (or completely different approaches might be needed for some climbing routes) .

Climbing Season

Weather station 14.9 miles from here

4 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Mt Carillon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Mt Carillon:
West ridge Direct   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, Alpine, 1000'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Mt Carillon

Featured Route For Mt Carillon
Rock Climbing Photo: looking straight up the West ridge of Mt Carillon,...

West ridge Direct 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a  California : High Sierra : ... : Mt Carillon
Lots of fun climbing and down-climbing moves over boulders and gendarmes along the ridge. The idea is to stay as close to the crest of the ridge as possible, and to seek out the most fun climbing moves.Most of the harder sections or moves are short - (many are avoidable). So doubtless this ridge could be climbed at an easier grade. Just make sure you don't climb up anything you can't also climb back down.Usually done as a fun addition after completing a fa...[more]   Browse More Classics in California

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