|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||Mike and Maggie Robinson|
|Season:||Really sunny route so climb in colder temps|
|Submitted By:||mikeyrob on Dec 16, 2015|
|Comments on Mrs. Robinson||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Jan 27, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Really fun climb. Climbed on jan 27 2016.
a little info,
pitch one is a lot of fun, one move at 5.10+ but is well protected with a green c3 (what we had) 5.8
pitch two is extremely short,but a fun easy stem chimney. Gear belay in the crack in the corner i used two #1 c4's and a #3 c4. 5.6/7
pitch three goes up some crack/face climbing to a off width crack/ once your done with the short off width go up the chimney to the right to the last belay bolts. 5.8
Raps: the route can be rapped in one rappel if you have two 70m ropes. it can be rapped to about 10 feet from the ground with some sketch down climbing if using two 60m ropes. or rap the route with two ropes in two raps. 3-->1 1--> ground.
be careful pulling the rope due to a lot of loose rocks on route.
you can get away with a single rack from .3-4 c4 with a double of #1 c4 for the gear belay
also for the approach: it can be done in 15 minutes if you park in the neighborhood by the "penrose bed and breakfast" there are two small dirt pull outs on red butte dr.
Jan 29, 2016
|Josh10, glad you liked the route and thanks for the heads up on the last anchors, bolt . I'll head up there and fix it.|
From: Sedona, AZ
Jan 9, 2017
Fun, sunny outing.... Pretty classic Sedona climbing; i.e., some clean rock (the crux) and a fair amount not so clean. Short tricky crux that is fun to figure out, well protected. Short approach with some steep uphill at the end and amazing views/location (hey--it's Sedona!).
One move at solid 5.10 in the first pitch crux. (Calling the route 5.8, Josh10, yet declaring a move of 10+, seems a little bizarre. This isn't JTree where the first moves don't count... If there's a 5.10 move, then the route is rated 5.10). But mostly 5.8 after that for sure.