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Castle Rock - South Tower
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Mrs. Robinson T 
North Face Route, The T 

Mrs. Robinson 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mike and Maggie Robinson
New Route: Yes
Season: Really sunny route so climb in colder temps
Page Views: 184
Submitted By: mikeyrob on Dec 16, 2015

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full view of the tower from the south

Description 

Really fun route that is perfect for a casual outing in Sedona. The route climbs mostly at 5.8 and only has a 10 foot section of 5.10 on the first pitch. It is quite easy to pull through this section using 1 or 2 black diamond red c3's to keep the grade at 5.8 if desired . If not the 5.10 move is fun and well protected. The climb stops just a few feet short of the top of the tower. The FA was done all the way to the top but the rock quality at the top significantly decreased so the anchors were placed below the summit. It is possible to climb up to the top and then down climb back to the third belay without much issue if desired.

Decent
The decent requires to ropes. From the third belay rap back down to the 1 and to the ground from the first.

Location 

The location is on the south east corner of castle rock. When you approach the formation form the north side walk around the east side via a ledge system with a really good trail on it. The route starts just as the ledge raps around to the south face.

Protection 

standard sedona rack. A #4 camalot is useful on the third pitch.


Photos of Mrs. Robinson Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: start of the third pitch
BETA PHOTO: start of the third pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking for a good place to put the third pitch an...
Looking for a good place to put the third pitch an...
Rock Climbing Photo: Maggie hanging out at the first belay
Maggie hanging out at the first belay
Rock Climbing Photo: fist pitch can be seen in the middle of the pictur...
fist pitch can be seen in the middle of the pictur...

Comments on Mrs. Robinson Add Comment
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By josh10
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Jan 27, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Really fun climb. Climbed on jan 27 2016.

a little info,
pitch one is a lot of fun, one move at 5.10+ but is well protected with a green c3 (what we had) 5.8

pitch two is extremely short,but a fun easy stem chimney. Gear belay in the crack in the corner i used two #1 c4's and a #3 c4. 5.6/7

pitch three goes up some crack/face climbing to a off width crack/ once your done with the short off width go up the chimney to the right to the last belay bolts. 5.8


Raps: the route can be rapped in one rappel if you have two 70m ropes. it can be rapped to about 10 feet from the ground with some sketch down climbing if using two 60m ropes. or rap the route with two ropes in two raps. 3-->1 1--> ground.
be careful pulling the rope due to a lot of loose rocks on route.

you can get away with a single rack from .3-4 c4 with a double of #1 c4 for the gear belay

also for the approach: it can be done in 15 minutes if you park in the neighborhood by the "penrose bed and breakfast" there are two small dirt pull outs on red butte dr.
By mikeyrob
Jan 29, 2016

Josh10, glad you liked the route and thanks for the heads up on the last anchors, bolt . I'll head up there and fix it.