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Mrs. Field's Follies 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Eric Hörst, Cindy Hintz, Charles Ganote (2003)
Page Views: 16,047
Submitted By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 10, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (249)
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Lower Part of Mrs. Field's Follies

Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a really fun route with a crack, some face, and an overhang on really nice rock.

Start as for Geisha Girl by climbing the wide crack, then straight up to the intimidating roof (easier than it looks). Surmount the roof to the anchors.

Location 

Same as Geisha Girl, at a wide crack just right of the starting block of Bobby D's Bunny

Protection 

10 bolts + 2-bolt anchor. 60M rope.


Photos of Mrs. Field's Follies Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Preparing to clip before tackling roof.
Preparing to clip before tackling roof.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling the roof.
Pulling the roof.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeff moving beyond the notorious roof.
Jeff moving beyond the notorious roof.

Comments on Mrs. Field's Follies Add Comment
Show which comments
By Gary Wheaton
From: Lexington Park, Maryland
Aug 29, 2016

Bring a #4 to protect the wide crack or a long stick clip. First bolt is 20-25 feet of the ground.
By jkw
Sep 1, 2016

Great route, one of the tallest moderates at the New. Roof looks harder than it is, and just under it offers a big ledge to take a rest, turn around and catch a nice view. Highball start was a bit more than I was willing to lead (I had no gear to protect the crack). First bolt is too high to stick clip with even a 12' stick.
By Kurt G.
From: Reading, PA
Apr 18, 2017
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I found an optional direct start if you want to avoid (or suck at) crack climbing. there was already chalk on a few holds so it should be obvious where to start
By Matthew Massey
From: Beckley, WV
Jun 7, 2017

If you have a 12' stickclip and you can't quite reach the first bolt, you can clip the bolt to the left of it, the first bolt of Geisha Girl and use the
big ledge to move the draw to the right easily. (if it's a slow day and nobody else is on it already, obviously).
By Jacob Sustrich
Jun 23, 2017
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Up to the first bolt is safe and easy, just take your time. Another option is to traverse in from the right after clipping the first bolt of Kinesthetica, you can just sidle across a massive ledge and clip it if you have members of your group who aren't confident.

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