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Mr. Wizard 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Rich Calderwood
Page Views: 564
Submitted By: Aaron Slaven on Mar 28, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Mr. Wizard , I bailed out right shortly after this...

Description 

This is the classic right face corning at Squarenail.

Location 

Start at the base of the long corner, Between "Are you Small" & "Zig Zag".

Protection 

Thin to 1", 2 bolt anchor with rap chains.


Photos of Mr. Wizard Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mr. Wizard, classic sustained corner.
Mr. Wizard, classic sustained corner.

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By vincent L.
From: Redwood City
Nov 18, 2013

The upper half of the right facing corner looked a little grungy and mossy. It has a 5.8R rating in the guidebook . How is the pro on the upper half ?
By Aaron Slaven
From: Fresno, CA
Jan 28, 2014

I brought a Metolius 0 & 00 for the top 15 feet. ture, its got a little munge at the top as well but still solid friction.
By Noah.J
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 8, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Pro can be a bit exciting on the upper half due mostly to the large crack running horizontally below, a fall could quite easily be injurious, despite the route itself taking decent pro.

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