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Jugness T 
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Mr. Toady's Dihedral T 
Reaper, The S 

Mr. Toady's Dihedral 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: R. Halka, J. Cotter - 1983
Page Views: 108
Submitted By: Jfaub on Jul 6, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Mr. Toady's Dihedral.

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  • Description 

    This climb is awesome. A bit short, but definitely worth trying. It is graded a bit old-school (as with most climbs in gatineau park, beware of the ''+'')

    Start on broken ground and gain the base of the pink dihedral. Jam and stem up this until the corner crack dissipates into nothingness and you have to use face holds, maybe the arete out left if you so desire. Put in your last piece of gear before the crack disappears (0.5 WC helium size) climb up over it and commit to the reachy / dynamic crux (depends on how tall you are). Really bad holds await, but don't let go, and clip a bolt. You think it's over now, don't you? Oh no. You still have to clip the chains. Be creative with what you have (not much), and feel around for hidden holds (key) and finally clip the chains.

    Location 

    The left-most route on the reaper buttress. Obvious pink granite dihedral.

    Protection 

    Standard rack. Ditch the big stuff. Basically hand size for the bottom and figer size for the upper part. 1 bolt (spins...) Bolted anchor.


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