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Calaveras Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Fallen Angel T 
Fine Line S 
King Kong T 
Layin' On The Hands T 
Medicine Man T 
Mighty Joe Young T 
Mr. Stiffy T 
Old Smokey T 
Sands of Time T 
Schizophrenic Dike T 
Silk Road (High Times) T 
Wall of the Worlds T 
Unsorted Routes:

Mr. Stiffy 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 
Season: Spring, Fall
Page Views: 1,004
Submitted By: Vlad S on Mar 9, 2015

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Nearing the end and the hardest moves of the climb...

Description 

Awesome finger crack that mostly follows a water groove, but also has a bunch of dikes and knobs thrown in for good measure when the crack thins out. You are going to want to follow the description for Schizophrenic Dike to get up to this pitch. The best way to approach it would be to climb the 3 pitches including the Schizophrenic Dike and rap down to the anchor at the start of Mr. Stiffy over to the left. From here follow the left trending finger crack that starts and ends very thin, but has easier climbing in the middle with several wider pods. The crux at the start protects well with a bomber 00 C3. Save the 0 and 000 C3 for the cruxy move at the end. RP would work as well.

To descend, there's supposed to be a bolted anchor going straight down, but I didn't manage to find it. You can swing back to the beginning of the pitch with some difficulty and a few directionals. From there do a short (50 ft) rap to the anchor below and one more long rap to the ground.

Location 

80 feet left of the Silk Road corner and 3 pitches up near the left edge of Laughing Hyena arch.

Protection 

RPs or smallest C3s from 000 to 1. Double set from #0.3 to #1 and single #2 camalot. One bolt a 1/3 of the way up. 2 ropes.


Photos of Mr. Stiffy Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: At the beginning of the pitch. So good!
At the beginning of the pitch. So good!

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