REI Community
Nip and Tuck
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Antagonism S,TR 
Arête S,TR 
Bock! T 
Boiling Point T,TR 
Caddis/Argus S 
Capital Punishment 
Constrictor T,TR 
Dan-D-Line T,TR 
Ebb Tide TR 
Finger Crack T,TR 
Gyro Captain S 
Hare Balls T,TR 
Heart Throb TR 
Hypotenuse T,TR 
Left-angling Crack T 
Lethal Dose T 
Mr. Spiffy S 
Mr. Stiffy S 
Night Train TR 
Old Dihedral T 
Spread Eages Dhare T,TR 
Surprising Slab TR 
Unknown A S 
Unknown B S 
Unnamed (submitted as Doc's Route) T 

Mr. Spiffy 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Pat Adams
Page Views: 2,947
Submitted By: jonah on Apr 13, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Chris Schulte bouldering out the direct start to G...

Seasonal Closure MORE INFO >>>


Mr. Spiffy is on the overhung wall next to the parking area for Nip & Tuck. The regular start begins with an awkward mantle. The moves go left from here, through some big but hard to use sidepulls, then to a jug on the arete (which is surprisingly hard to clip from). A couple thrutchy moves and you're at the crux, which involves pretty tough body position on slopey crimps and gastons pulling over the lip. Look for a key right foot under the lip to get your hips up, and it's all over.

I may be a puss, or maybe I was doing the moves wrong, but this thing feels really hard. I heard someone bouldered it out and called it an 8. Yikes.


3-4 bolts, chains at the top.

Comments on Mr. Spiffy Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jim Redo
Apr 14, 2003

Pat Adams did the first ascent of this route.
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Apr 14, 2003

If anyone bouldered this out ground-up, everyone would hear about it. A dicey balancy crux at 20+ feet with a deadly landing. 13X for sure
By Anonymous Coward
May 22, 2004

Attn. Peter Beal, I am wondering why is Mr. Stiffy not in the guide? This route is a "classic" short, hard, contrived, very painful, also would like to note there is no " HIKING" for my little legs! Thanks so very much for listing!
By chris schulte
May 27, 2008

Hi there..
To clarify, both myself and Seth Allred bouldered out this route a while back. I've also heard that Dave Graham bouldered it out a few years ago. Maybe V8 from the direct. Yep, a pretty scary mantle but not unreasonable with 3 mondo pads.... ;) Buttermilk-like....
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
May 27, 2008

That is amazing even with mondo pads. Way to go! BTW the mantel on Mr Spiffy is just past the last pad in the photo so you're looking at a 30' drop onto jagged rocks on a 13a crux. The start is definitely harder than V8. That's probably the most significant highball/solo in the Front Range in quite a while. I can't believe it wasn't reported!

By chris schulte
May 28, 2008

Thanks, Peter..

BTW all, this is a photo by Andy Mann!!
By Jacek Giecold
May 10, 2016

Someone stole my quickdraws from this route couple of days ago.... I saw a group of people climbing there recently, and draws were hanging, so next time I see them I will ask to give it back. This is sad that this kind of things happens in climbing community....
By jason seaver
From: Estes Park, CO
May 10, 2016

Um. Really?!

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · People · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About