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Mr. Spiffy 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Pat Adams
Page Views: 3,020
Submitted By: jonah on Apr 13, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Chris Schulte bouldering out the direct start to G...

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  • Description 

    Mr. Spiffy is on the overhung wall next to the parking area for Nip & Tuck. The regular start begins with an awkward mantle. The moves go left from here, through some big but hard to use sidepulls, then to a jug on the arete (which is surprisingly hard to clip from). A couple thrutchy moves and you're at the crux, which involves pretty tough body position on slopey crimps and gastons pulling over the lip. Look for a key right foot under the lip to get your hips up, and it's all over.

    I may be a puss, or maybe I was doing the moves wrong, but this thing feels really hard. I heard someone bouldered it out and called it an 8. Yikes.

    Protection 

    3-4 bolts, chains at the top.


    Comments on Mr. Spiffy Add Comment
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    By Jim Redo
    Apr 14, 2003

    Pat Adams did the first ascent of this route.
    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    Apr 14, 2003

    If anyone bouldered this out ground-up, everyone would hear about it. A dicey balancy crux at 20+ feet with a deadly landing. 13X for sure
    By Anonymous Coward
    May 22, 2004

    Attn. Peter Beal, I am wondering why is Mr. Stiffy not in the guide? This route is a "classic" short, hard, contrived, very painful, also would like to note there is no " HIKING" for my little legs! Thanks so very much for listing!
    By chris schulte
    May 27, 2008

    Hi there..
    To clarify, both myself and Seth Allred bouldered out this route a while back. I've also heard that Dave Graham bouldered it out a few years ago. Maybe V8 from the direct. Yep, a pretty scary mantle but not unreasonable with 3 mondo pads.... ;) Buttermilk-like....
    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    May 27, 2008

    Chris,
    That is amazing even with mondo pads. Way to go! BTW the mantel on Mr Spiffy is just past the last pad in the photo so you're looking at a 30' drop onto jagged rocks on a 13a crux. The start is definitely harder than V8. That's probably the most significant highball/solo in the Front Range in quite a while. I can't believe it wasn't reported!

    bouldercanyonbouldering.blogsp...
    By chris schulte
    May 28, 2008

    Thanks, Peter..

    BTW all, this is a photo by Andy Mann!!
    By Jacek Giecold
    May 10, 2016

    Someone stole my quickdraws from this route couple of days ago.... I saw a group of people climbing there recently, and draws were hanging, so next time I see them I will ask to give it back. This is sad that this kind of things happens in climbing community....
    By jason seaver
    From: Estes Park, CO
    May 10, 2016

    Um. Really?!

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