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Aid Line (Chockstone Roulette?) T 
Beside the Pillar T 
Blood Pulse T 
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Flake (unknown there was no plaque) T 
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Hands to OW T 
Hands to OW Chimney (unknown due to no plaque) T 
Hanging to the Right (unknown due to no plaque) T 
Left Leaner T 
Mr. Sheeley T 
Muffin Man (aka Leaning Corner or Moderation) T 
My Big 3 Inch (no plaque at bottom) T 
One Bolt Wonder (unknown not a plaque) T 
OW Corner T 
Point 5 roof T 
Short Dihedral T 
Short, Some Hands T 
Slightly Overhanging Wide Corner (unknown no plaque) T 
Uncle Remus (aka Short Corner) T 
Zig-Zag T 
Zombie Woof (submitted as Big Hands Roof) T 

Mr. Sheeley 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: ?
Season: any
Page Views: 838
Submitted By: rob pizem on Dec 9, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Rob on the T-rope on Zig Zag. Eds. The route to t...

Description 

This is the ever-widening offwidth dihedral to the left of the Zig-Zag route.

Protection 

Bring gear 3-6 inches.


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By rob pizem
Dec 9, 2012

For a picture, see the Zig-Zag photo.
By slim
Administrator
Dec 9, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This is actually an existing route (Mr. Sheley, 10c, 150 ft). The pitch ends at the top of the pillar. As with many routes at Escalante, the climbing doesn't end when it gets wide. If bolts have sprouted 60 feet up, they probably won't last very long.
By rob pizem
Dec 11, 2012

Slim, I was just out there this past weekend and noticed the new anchors. I was surprised about their appearance. I figured that it went to the top and wondered why they were there. I am glad that you identified the history of the pitch. I have not climbed it yet but will take it to the top next time to enjoy it all. By the way, if you head out, keep an eye for the HUGE rockfall to around the corner to the right. The entire column fell over, it is insane!!!
By Mike Storeim
From: Evergreen, CO
Dec 24, 2012

Just curious - Why is the name Catholic Girls still attached to this route?

It's only aka that name by whoever retro bolted an anchor halfway up an existing climb that already had an anchor at the top that can be seen from the ground.
By Kent Pease
From: Littleton, Colorado
Apr 6, 2017

I was very disappointed to see bolts added to this route with both an intermediate anchor and two for protection on-route. “Mr. Sheley” is a proud line standing as a testament to long hard workouts inspired by my high school track and X-country coach. As noted above, the climb is 150 feet long and ends on top of the pillar. Shortening the climb with an intermediate anchor is like dropping out of a race. Also, the addition of bolts where removable protection is available violates our basic standards for the sport and is an unwarranted intrusion on nature. I request that the persons who placed the bolts reverse the process and return the route to its original condition.
By slim
Administrator
Apr 8, 2017
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Beyond ultra lame. I say chop, chop, chop.

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