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Mr. Sandman 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Tom Perkins, Mary Jane Golau, Vaino Kodas, 2002
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 5,100
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Apr 4, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (196)
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BETA PHOTO: Plotinus Wall, left side.

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  • Description 

    Just left of Golden Slumber at a pine tree is the start of Mr. Sandman. Climb up angling ramps to a bolt. Clip the bolt and make a nice move to good holds. Continue up steep rock on good holds past several bolts to a short, steep corner. Climb up the corner clipping bolts on the left to a hard move to gain a ledge and the anchor. Excellent climbing on steep rock.


    10 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

    Photos of Mr. Sandman Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Mr. Sandman, Golden Slumber, Sleepless In Boulder.
    BETA PHOTO: Mr. Sandman, Golden Slumber, Sleepless In Boulder.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Theo moving through the upper crux on a beautiful ...
    Theo moving through the upper crux on a beautiful ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Schulte...
    Rock Climbing Photo: at the tricky start, thanks for the additional bol...
    at the tricky start, thanks for the additional bol...
    Rock Climbing Photo: On the easier middle ground. The awkward start of ...
    On the easier middle ground. The awkward start of ...

    Comments on Mr. Sandman Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 20, 2013
    By S. Kimball
    Nov 8, 2002

    The route 50' left of Mr.S.. short but 3Star...Mr. S. is quite good but 5.10c? S.K.
    By Richard M. Wright
    From: Lakewood, CO
    Feb 3, 2003

    Two stars for sure, at a minimum. In two trips to Plotinus Wall, I found myself running up this pleasing pitch each time. The line has fine , thoughtful movement on largely excellent rock that is well protected. And it gets good sun. This leads me to musing about good climbing. Sometime in the middle 80s Alan Watts crystallized the one thought that has driven much of climbing for two decades or more. He said that "difficulty is the objective" - and (arguably) that statement set the whole quest in motion. Frankly, it may be equally important to recognize that "esthetics is the objective". In most circles, esthetics and difficulty equate nearly perfectly, but esthetics also allows that some moderate climbing contains some of the most pleasing movement you can find on rock. Mr. Sandman offered up pleasing, esthetic movement in a nice environment without amping up the difficulty quotient. What more could you ask for?
    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    Jul 2, 2003

    I would like to add my vote of at least another star for this climb. Grade possibly 10a although given the downgrading mentality for this area, let's call it 5.8 to be on the safe side. Whatever the difficulty, certainly one of the most enjoyable moderate sport climbs in the canyon and the best warmup on the wall.
    By Ken Leiden
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 9, 2003

    I had been up to Plotinus Wall twice before, but skipped this route because of the one-star rating. What a mistake. It was reading Richard's comments that changed my mind and he is right on. This route is destined to become one of the most popular moderate sport routes in the Canyon given the high quality of the moves and rock combined with the tranquil setting away from the highway. Regarding the rating, I thought this route had no moves harder than Animation 5.9 (aka Jaycene's Dance 5.8) at Animal World, but anyone who skips this route because of the rating is missing out.
    By Kreighton Bieger
    Jul 9, 2003
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    Another vote for the quality of this route here. This is indeed an excellent route on quality rock, with moves that are surprisingly aesthetic and continuous. This is one of the finer bolted routes I've ever done, bar none. Thanks to Bob and Vaino for this line.

    These days I'm more inclined to see route ratings as unique to the area as much as being strictly conforming to the YDS. I.e. "an Eldo 5.9" or "a Vedauwoo 5.9" seems to mean more, if that information is available.

    That said, I think this route is "a Boulder Canyon 9+".
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jul 16, 2003
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Pretty good line and if nothing else, nice & long. There are a lot of good 10's at the cliff so that a 5.10 climber can make this a day's destination and do good routes all day- in which case, this should be one of them.

    Pretty good route, but not the best in the area. So far, Sleepless In Boulder or Lucky Strikes seemed the best at the cliff.

    The route seems easy at its grade, but a 5.9 leader might be a little tweaked on it, eh?
    By Ray Snead
    Jul 20, 2003
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    I first did this route shortly after it had been put up, and thought Bob's grade was right on. It has cleaned up nicely, and I found holds today that I had completely missed in the grit and lichen before. It is easier now, yes, but certainly not 5.9. Sandman is harder than a typical bolted BC 10a, and for that matter, Over the Hill. I'd call it 10a/b, and do be careful getting to the first bolt.

    A two star route at a three star crag.
    By Pamela Emanoil
    Jul 22, 2003

    Even funner than it looks from the ground, but nowhere near as hard as Over the Hill. Easier than Bolting for Glory, too. I vote 5.9, if a majority grade makes sense.

    5.9 **
    By Anonymous Coward
    Aug 29, 2003

    Another good climb seriously overrated. I appreciate above posts that reference rating against several other long established lines in the region. To continue that, this is easier than Hair City and West Buttress, any 5.9 on Castle Rock,... and that list could easily continue. I can't think of a lot of 5.8s that are harder around here, so in that vein I'd have to say 5.8 seems more like it. I know this is touchy ground, but keeping the rating inflation under control seems like a good idea. - Cindy
    By Charles Vernon
    From: Tucson, AZ
    Aug 30, 2003

    Wow! I climbed this in January 2003, and maybe it's cleaned up or something since then, but back then it seemed like solid .10b or so up near the anchors. I must be missing something, but I can't see how this could possibly be 5.8!
    By Ray Snead
    Aug 31, 2003
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Charles, I concur. The move left to the anchors is similar in difficulty to the cruxes on Bolt Cola or That's Weak - the closest thing we have to "reference" 10a's in BoCan.
    By Ivan Rezucha
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Oct 10, 2003
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    One move at the bottom, one at the top. Easy in between. Pleasant but nothing special. 5.9.

    There are 10 bolts as of 10/9. There is one low to the ground that is not in the photo above. That may have been added recently? This first and possibly new bolt is unnecessary.
    By Erik L Ahrn_
    Oct 27, 2003
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    Excellent route, but definitely easier than 5.10c.
    By Ron Olsen
    From: Boulder, CO
    Oct 28, 2003
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    The easiest climb at Plotinus and one of the best. It's not difficult, but the moves are esthetic and fun the whole way up. An awkward move past the second bolt seemed about 5.8. The traverse left at the last bolt looks intimidating, but seemed about 5.9 once I got into it. It could be more difficult for shorter climbers to make the reach left to good handholds, however.

    A comment on quality ratings: Some people seem to find easy climbing boring and uninteresting, and give easy (or unsustained) climbs few quality stars. In my opinion, a climb with a single crux, with lots of fun easier moves, should not be downgraded in quality just because it isn't sustained at the crux level. But perhaps I enjoy easy climbing and other people don't.
    By Ivan Rezucha
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Oct 10, 2004
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    Did this again a couple of weeks ago, this time on TR. Had a hard time at the bottom. There's not much for your hands, and if you're feet aren't just right, you get pushed out. Also thought the last move was pretty hard. Perhaps I just wasn't focused due to being on TR, or perhaps this is low 10 and not 9 as I said in a previous post
    By TBlom
    Jun 8, 2005
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    very nice warmup, not too bolted. Go straight at the last bolt, undercling the upside down horn and reach for the jug by the anchors, then move left. I tried it both ways, seems about the same difficulty but going straight up is more fun. down below is just balance, trust your sticky rubber.
    By zack s
    From: gunnison, co
    Nov 25, 2008

    5. B.E.A.U.T.I.F.U.L.
    By Ben Cassedy
    From: Denver, CO
    Aug 12, 2010
    rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    Stellar, get on it! Long and varied, crazy wild moves to the anchors. Thought it was harder than Napster, but that just shows you what happens when you try to grade a climb.
    By keith story
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 21, 2010
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    An easy 5.10 for sure. The only reason I'm sticking with the 5.10 consensus is because several moves made me think, something you don't see too often on 5.9s. A little pump and fun moves at the end. Great warm-up.
    By Pascal Heger
    From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
    Jun 12, 2011
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Excellent warmup. I would recommend it to anyoneb visiting this area.
    By Nate R
    From: Boulder, CO
    Oct 20, 2013
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    Maybe I did it wrong, or maybe it was cold (couldn't feel fingers), or maybe I'm just lame. But I thought it was about 10c.

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