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Mr. Sandman 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Gordon Douglass, Stuart Ruckman 1989
Page Views: 2,573
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 22, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (54)
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need more yoga


This climbs the left crack (Chimney Sweep) in the deep chimney system until the prow and then works right to the bolts and finishes on the prow. The crack is easy and enjoyable. When you get to the prow, don't be overwhelmed, as the faces get very smooth and stemming seems to be the key to get out on the prow. Second, flexibility in the legs and a long reach seem helpful.


2 bolts up top for the anchors. 3 draws for the prow, and some medium gear for the crack leading to the prow.

Photos of Mr. Sandman Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: 4) Mr. Sandman  5) Narcosis
BETA PHOTO: 4) Mr. Sandman 5) Narcosis
Rock Climbing Photo: At the first crux, looking for a micro-nut placeme...
At the first crux, looking for a micro-nut placeme...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mr. Sandman
Mr. Sandman
Rock Climbing Photo: Stemming to succes
Stemming to succes
Rock Climbing Photo: that 3 bolt thing...
that 3 bolt thing...

Comments on Mr. Sandman Add Comment
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By CalmAdrenaline
From: SL,UT
Jun 22, 2010

goes free with a few tcu's, micro nuts, and a #4 bd cam.
By Jared928
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 24, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

No idea why this only has two stars on here and one star in the Ruckman Guide. Probably my favorite ten in BCC. Awesome stemming to a handful of fun uniquely exposed face moves up the prow complete with a bouldery throw to the mantle. Highly recommended.
By Garrett C
From: SL,UT
May 17, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Really awkward stemming out to get onto the bolted slab face. Technical. Very fun climb.

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