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f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)
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Mr. P's Wurst 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 170'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 1,613
Submitted By: MojoMonkey on Oct 4, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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BETA PHOTO: Madame G's upper pitches and rap.


Climbs up the orange buttress to the right of Madame G's and the left of Le Teton. There are three prominent overhangs near the top of the buttress, this route weaves up through the left side of the first, right of the second, and left of the third to merge with Madame G's Wulst at the top.

Note - I tried this for the first time recently without really reading the guidebook well and accidentally did the 5.6R variation. Someone who has done the standard route can elaborate on that part. I'll list 3 pitches as in the gray dick, though I linked pitches 2&3.

Pitch 1: Scramble up the gully for about 50 feet. Anchor in the gully.

Pitch 2: Angle up and left on good holds towards the first overhang and build a belay. 5.8, 60'.

Pitch 3: Climb the overhang at a crack, then angle left, staying right of the next overhang and left of the third overhang and Le Teton. Exit to the GT Ledge in the same spot as Madame G. 5.7+, 60'.

Variation: There is a ledge off to the left side of the gully about the same level of the start of Madame G's P2 and the ledge used to top rope the guide's wall. From here you can climb the pebbly face at around 5.6R heading towards the first overhang. I angled right towards the arete a little, then back to the left merging with the standard P2. I placed some small pieces (micronut, black tricam, one of the smaller BD C3s) but wasn't thrilled by them.


Starts right of the orange Madame G's buttress in the gully frequently used to set up top ropes on the Guide's Wall.


Standard Gunks rack. I'd recommend bringing enough to link P2/P3.

Some micronuts/cams may help a on the variation.

Comments on Mr. P's Wurst Add Comment
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By gblauer Blauer
From: Wayne, PA
Jun 20, 2012

We linked P2 and P3. I thought the move over the roof (supposedly 7ish) was much harder than a 7. It was a long reach for me. I wanted to like this climb and I really didn't like it. From the ground it looks great, in reality it was just ok. Will do it again, perhaps I was missing something the first time.
By BrianRH
From: Jersey City, NJ
Apr 15, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This was a fun exposed climb that is easier than it appears. Ropes seem optional for the first pitch. We scrambled up the gully to the ledges to the right of the bushes described in the guidebook and then went up the face to the left. Relatively easy, exposed 5.6ish climbing with good rests on big holds that appear loose to look at but feel solid. There are arguably two cruxes, both balancey moves past a roof. Easier if tall. You can link the second two pitches. Easier with doubles.
After the crux you can opt to go right and finish on Le Teton's jug haul as a bonus.
By worth russell
From: Brooklyn, NY
Dec 14, 2013

I don't like this route, it's smushed between two classics and this route just doesn't match up. Climb Madame Gs or Le Teton. Step it up or step it down, just don't waste your time here.
By David Stowe
Dec 23, 2013

Could not disagree more with Worth on this one. Mr. P's is a good climb. You can also do it one pitch from the ground for about 200 feet of continuous climbing. It has several interesting sections with some moves to unlock. There are also a number of fun steep spots with good exposure. The climbing has good variety as well. Both of its neighbors are quite good, but this route is not squeezed in or contrived and takes a completely independent line from Madame G's and Le Teton. This would be the 5.8 that is recommended for the 5.9 leader.
By SethG
Dec 27, 2013

Gotta agree with David here. I like this route. Good steep juggy 5.8 to an entertaining and puzzling overhang. Dick in the most recent (2004) edition of his guidebook smartly directs you around the run out bottom of the route so it's all well-protected.
By Dana Bartlett
From: CT
Mar 16, 2014

After the overhang on pitch three you can go right instead of left and do the roof that is part of G Forces. Pretty wild 5.9.
By David Stowe
Aug 31, 2015

I had not been on this route a quite a few years and decided to take a run on it this past weekend. Not sure why you would break this up into multiple pitches when you can run it into one 200 foot pitch and no real drag when well slung on a single rope. It is fun, exposed, some good moves, steep and pretty much what you would want from a gunks route. The only knock is that it can be a little dirty, but that certainly does not take away much from the route. Highly recommended for very solid 5.8 or 5.9 leader.

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