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Peg Leg Wall
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Mr. Peg Leg Speed Work 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio, 1987
Season: warmer Shelf months
Page Views: 93
Submitted By: slim on Oct 20, 2014

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Description 

This is a superb climb on fantastic rock. With modern protection, it would be 4 stars for sure.

Begin up a beautiful, silver/white face behind the small tree, making long reaches between excellent pockets. A long clip to a high 2nd bolt relieves the nerves a bit. A big reach over the roof begins what feels like a never ending journey to figure out the best holds and sequences on brilliant black rock, sometimes well above bolts, on this bafflingly pumpy slab.

Rejoice when you clip the chains on this completely forgotten classic. This is a great route!

Location 

This route is on the right most panel at Peg Leg Wall, about 25 feet left of where the trail meets the wall. It starts behind a small tree on silver/white rock.

Protection 

4 well-spaced, old (but thick) bolts with spooky, thin, black hangers. The 2nd bolt is pretty high.


Comments on Mr. Peg Leg Speed Work Add Comment
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By Darryl Roth
Oct 24, 2014

Note: the route name is Mr. Peg Leg Speed Work, not Mr. Peg Leg Speed Workout.
By slim
Administrator
Oct 28, 2014

Shoot! Sorry about that, Darryl.

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