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Donnelly Canyon
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5.10 Corner T 
Ansaid Tower T 
Binou's Crack T 
Chocolate Corner T 
Crack Just to Left of Drainpipe, The T 
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Drainpipe T 
Elephant Man T 
Fuel Injected Hardbody T 
Generic Crack T 
Half Man, Half Alligator Shark T 
JARNI ZVRAT-KY T 
Let 'er Buck S 
Mr. Peanut T 
Naked and Dead, The T 
Naked and the Dead Variation T 
Ocean Negro T 
Owl Crack T 
Rainbow Sign T 
Sister Skywalker T 
Sleeve of Wizard T 
Thing, The T 
Twitterpated T 
Unknown T 
Unknown 5.10+ T 
Unknown AKA Reclamation T 
Unknown Pod Climb. T 
Violently Happy T 

Mr. Peanut 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Hooman Aprin and Les Ellison, 1983
Page Views: 3,293
Submitted By: M.Morley on Nov 14, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (80)
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mrs peanut on mr peanut

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Mr. Peanut lies up and approx 20' left of Chocolate Corner. There is a somewhat hidden hand crack on the right, just left of a wide crack. Start up the hand crack to a small roof (crux), which narrows down to consistent fingers to the anchor. It is rated 11+ in both the older Sharp End guidebook as well as the new Bloom book, but I would argue it's more like 10+, possibly 11-.

Protection 

Mostly purple Camalots (0.5) and/or orange TCUs, with a couple smaller and larger pieces for good measure.


Photos of Mr. Peanut Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: brittney on mr peanut
brittney on mr peanut
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike tackles the upper finger crack. Photo: Joanna...
Mike tackles the upper finger crack. Photo: Joanna...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mr. Peanut with the roof crack/move in view.
Mr. Peanut with the roof crack/move in view.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking at Mr. Peanut's beautiful crack from rappe...
Looking at Mr. Peanut's beautiful crack from rappe...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike on the upper half of Mister Peanut, belayed b...
Mike on the upper half of Mister Peanut, belayed b...

Comments on Mr. Peanut Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 5, 2016
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Nov 14, 2006

I'd be interested to hear what others feel about the rating on this one.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 14, 2006
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

You mean that you want me to agree that it is off? Yeah, it's probably 5.11-, but not 11+.
By Michael Murphy
Nov 17, 2006
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

I onsighted this route, so there is no way it is 5.11. I have never onsighted a 5.11. I'd give it 5.10+ at most. 4.5 Camalots protect well in the offwidth on the upper right.
By Ben Kiessel
Dec 16, 2006

I thought after climbing this route a few years ago that the rating was for climbing the thin crack, not the one where you can wedge your a$$ in.

I have climbed it both ways and if you use that wide crack on the right it is way easier(10+). But if you stick to the little crack once you hit the little roof, it is much harder(11+).

I remember there being some self restraint involved to not use the wide crack, but then again it has been awhile since i have climbed it, i could be way off.
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Oct 16, 2007

"I thought after climbing this route a few years ago that the rating was for climbing the thin crack, not the one where you can wedge your a$$ in."

Oh, I guess you mean like that? That would explain it.
By Ben Kiessel
Oct 16, 2007

yes, but if the 11+ grade is for just the thin crack I'm not sure where you draw the line and say no more since you have to use the right crack at the bottom.
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Oct 16, 2007

I'm not sure, Ben. Fun route whatever the grade.
By CURT LOVE
Nov 6, 2007

GEAR:Fingers size gear and maybe one big piece but you could get by with some fingers size gear the whole way up.
5.11+ I was thinking more like 5.9 or 10-.
Contrived climbing is to goofy for me.
dont let 5.11 plus scare you away from this one. Maybe the easiest route I have done at Donnely canyon.
Have fun
By Darren Knezek
Dec 5, 2008

FA: Hooman Aprin and Les Ellison, 1983.
By Darren Knezek
May 10, 2009

This was rated 5.11+ because it's a two-pitch climb, and that's the rating of the 2nd pitch that angles up and left thru a flare.

It had nothing to do with the two cracks at the bottom.
By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 29, 2009

Agree this route is more like 10+ than 11+. Still really fun. Maybe 11+ if you didn't use the off-width but that would be pretty contrived for the creek.
By Timmamok
From: Durango, CO
Oct 29, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

The first pitch is an easy-moderate 10. If you want to see what 10+ feels like, go climb The Wave. Can't speak to the second pitch.
By Fulford
Apr 8, 2014
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Really fun! I would say 10+ and the grade doesn't really change with hand size on this one. 7 purple camalots wouldn't be too many for this route!
By Colin Parker
Administrator
From: Idyllwild, CA
Mar 27, 2016
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Loved this route but it is definitely not 5.11, and IMO, not even 10+. With decent finger crack technique it felt like easy 5.10. There are plenty of stem/chimney rests and good feet the whole way. A plentiful rack would be 1 or 2 .4's and 7 .5's. Have fun!
By Optimistic
From: New Paltz
Apr 5, 2016

Good route, but for me there were many spots where purple c4s wouldn't fit, particularly above the roof. 3 or 4 purple, 4 0.4,1 0.75 and one #5 is what I'll take next time. We had fun trying to eliminate the wide crack and just use fingers and ratchets, tough!

As several have said, the 10+/11 rating is for p2, p1 is 9+/10-.

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