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Palmer Gulch
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Mr. November Too T 
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Mr. October Also 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 590', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Mike McNeil and John Hinrichs
New Route: Yes
Season: Sunny
Page Views: 443
Submitted By: Mike McNeil on Oct 14, 2014

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After rapping off the ridge on a wild 120ft free h...

Description 

Start the same as Mr. November, but instead of heading left about 100 ft up just go straight up the crack until the end of the rope about 180ft total 5.6. You can go farther up the dihedral for about 30ft. and then traverse left around the corner continue traversing about 100ft to the left on a nice crack for about 50ft and then heading up and left placing some small cams straight up into a horizontal roof crack for protection. Then continue to the left and pull the offwidth crack roof and continue up the crack for 40ft for about 170ft total 5.7+. Continue up the face and easy wide cracks for about 170ft total 5.6. Pull a hard move protected by a tightly placed #4 camalot for about a 10ft and then another 30ft above that boulder problem then traverse left for about 30 more feet about 70ft total 5.7.

Location 

Starts the same as Mr. November and then goes right about 100ft up. It starts off a large boulder 450 ft right of the Harney Flow ice route.

Protection 

Double rack to a 4 and a 5 and a 6 should be adequate. Take may long slings. Rapped 120ft off the ridge off a arch thread. Walk east and then down the gully that leads to the Harney Ice waterfall and rappel of the anchor.


Photos of Mr. October Also Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Wall right of the Harney Ice flow.
BETA PHOTO: Wall right of the Harney Ice flow.

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