REI Community
Dairy Queen Wall - Right Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Airy Scene T 
Bill's Nuts T 
Biological Clock T 
Chili Dog T 
Date Shake T 
Dilly Bar T 
Dipped Cone T 
Double Decker T 
Frosty Cone T 
Hot Fudge T 
I Forgot to Have Babies TR 
Mr. Misty Kiss T 
Nuts and Cherries T 
Possum Pie T 
Scrumdillyishus T 
Squirrel Attack T 

Mr. Misty Kiss 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Dan Ahlborn & Tim Powell, April 1976
Page Views: 6,053
Submitted By: C Miller on Jul 3, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (236)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
seemed much harder than a 5.7. Closer to a 5.8 or...


Super fun climbing up the heavily featured crack that offers all sorts of jams, face holds and protection opportunities. Gear belay and easy downclimb off the right edge of the cliff.


The obvious left-slanting crack system just right of a deep chimney/break in the center of the wall.


Gear to 3"

Photos of Mr. Misty Kiss Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Me leading Mr. Misty Kiss today
BETA PHOTO: Me leading Mr. Misty Kiss today
Rock Climbing Photo: Amir on Mr. Misty Kiss
BETA PHOTO: Amir on Mr. Misty Kiss
Rock Climbing Photo: Perfect splitter.
Perfect splitter.
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing the opening section of Mr. Misty Kiss.
Climbing the opening section of Mr. Misty Kiss.
Rock Climbing Photo: Scott Flagg leads Mr. Misty Kiss.  Photo: Mike Mor...
Scott Flagg leads Mr. Misty Kiss. Photo: Mike Mor...
Rock Climbing Photo: Shana Lauer on Mr. Misty Kiss.  Photo: Mike Morley
Shana Lauer on Mr. Misty Kiss. Photo: Mike Morley
Rock Climbing Photo: Mr. Misty Kiss (5.7), Joshua Tree NP
Mr. Misty Kiss (5.7), Joshua Tree NP

Comments on Mr. Misty Kiss Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 22, 2016
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 14, 2002

I thought it was a 5.7. A difficult 5.7 tho!
By Andrew Gram
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 11, 2002

The guidebook said this was 5.7, but I thought it was much harder than Double Cross 7+, Sail Away 8, or even Room to Shroom 9. I felt like a heel for sending a new trad leader up it as her 4th lead, but was fairly happy I was just following it at the end of the day. On the bright side, it absolutely sews up with stoppers and small to medium cams. Great route.
By Mike Epke
From: Denver, CO
Mar 16, 2003

Great climb on the great rock at Dairy Queen wall. The pro was tricky because the crack flares a bit. My first 5.7 crack lead in the park, definitely a route I will remember. After the climb rap to the left then TR the 5.9 face climb Hot Fudge. Enjoy.
By Peter Gram
From: Cupertino, CA
Mar 27, 2003

Excellent quality splitter hand crack. Fun and sustained.
By Dynomight510
Sep 22, 2003
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Sustained 5.7 climb from start to finish. This is "Frack" climbing- a crack that has prominent face features allowing you to face climb rather than crack climb it in some or most places. It has solid small and medium nut placements all the way. HB Offsets and small hexes work perfectly. Bring some 2-3" cams for the belay or top rope set up. The rap station is two 1/2" bolts with shuts(term) rather than bolt hangers with chains. The downclimb though the chimney to the climbers right is another way to get down. But it is a downclimb not a walkoff. This route is in the shade by the noonish.

Quality rock and fun crack climbing.

Sustained. almost every move is 5.7
By Dustysdawg
Dec 31, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Fun route. Lots of big face holds the whole way and good protection in the crack. Maybe a 5.7, but definitely not 5.8. Double cross and White Lightning are way harder.
By Obi
From: Portland, OR
Oct 5, 2006
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

A bit pumpy if you climb it inefficiently. Another good one for the novice leader if they don't mind a bit of a pump.
By DaveGustafson
From: Palm Desert, CA
Nov 7, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Yet another fine example of the inconsistency of ratings at Josh. I must be a weakling with no crack climbing technique, but I sure think this was harder than some of the other 5.7 cracks I've led at Josh. I'd suggest that this route has a rating of 5.8. I wouldn't suggest this for a new leader.
By Chris D
From: the couch
Apr 17, 2010

Climbed this fun route today. Agree that it's sustained 5.7, and harder than many 5.7 climbs in the park. If it weren't so close to vertical, it would be 5.7 without all the discussion about it being a sandbag. For comparison, I'd say that though short, this is a harder lead than Double Cross, Mental Physics, or any of the other 5.7's on DQ wall. Not much like Sail Away, but I felt about as insecure leading this route as I did on Sail Away. I am not a strong 5.8 leader (yet!).

It was fun, but not a classic. It is easy to protect with nuts. Try protecting the top of Bills Nuts before you complain about the flaring nature of this route!

I would also not call this a "splitter." When I think of splitter, I think of a crack that's a split in the rock, not a crack like this that is shallow and mildly flaring.
By Brandontyrrell tyrrell
May 20, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

5.8 for sure
By sleebs
Oct 12, 2010

Dear Mr Misty Kiss,
you were my first climb outside ever, and you were hard.
By J.B.
Jun 7, 2011

Felt this to be harder than cake walk. Maybe a tad harder than hands off. Not a lot of crack climbing besides the last 15 feet. I felt it protected alright but not great and all the holds were really slippery! Hand jams were my only rests...
By Canon
Apr 16, 2012

Definitely the hardest "5.7" lead I've ever done in J Tree; Harder than Sail Away, Breakfast of Champions, Nurn's Romp, Mental Physics, etc. Sustained and not a lot of rests. There's a single bolt with quicklink 20ft to climber's right for rappelling off the wall.
By Russ Walling
Sep 26, 2012

There's a single bolt with quicklink 20ft to climber's right for rappelling off the wall.

That is some pretty suspect advice. That "single" bolt is not for rapping off of, and the down climb takes about 3 minutes.
By Climb To Safety
From: california
Dec 13, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

rock was ice cold, made the climbing that much more intense with numb hands. harder than frosty cone.
By Izzy Nawfal
From: Redondo Beach, California
Dec 30, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A fun sustained climb. I do agree that it felt more difficult than other 5.7s in the park, including Frosty Cone and Double Cross.
By Jan Tarculas
From: Riverside, Ca
Feb 22, 2016
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I agree with comments above. Felt harder than Frosty Cone 5.7 to the left and Double Cross. Pumpy route with slick holds. Gear anchor up top, I used a .75, #1 and #2 C4

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About