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Mr. Meanor Wall
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Mr. Meanor 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Ben Burnham, Doug Lantz
Page Views: 2,400
Submitted By: Scott Tucker on Jun 5, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (50)
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BETA PHOTO: Mr. Meanor (March 2014)

Description 

I felt the crux was getting some tricky gear in midway up on a less than perfect stance. Otherwise it protects well and and has a few bolts.

Location 

Thin crack near left side of Mr. Meanor wall. Left of larger crack, bolted face up top.

Protection 

Small to medium cams and nuts plus bolts with chains anchors.


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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 8, 2016
By joshf
From: missoula, mt
Feb 1, 2008

this route has fun moves and protects well with small to medium cams. stays in the grade most of the way up.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Apr 20, 2009

2 bolts can be supplemented with a set of stoppers or cams to 1 1/2"
By Kelsey Rentchler
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 7, 2009

Hey fellow climbers. I wanted to make a note on this climb after an accident my climber had on this route on friday December 4th 2009. As we know a lot of routes on Mt. Lemmon have a pretty good run-out to the first bolt. With this climb there is a long run out to the first safety bolt. My climber did not know this was a mixed route and started the climb. After making the first 15ft to the fist bolt he realized it was a trad route and despite my orders to come down he decided to attempt the 15 ft run out to the second safety bolt with no gear. (climber ego got int the way). While clipping the second bolt the climber fell 30 ft to the rock below. I was the belayer on the fall and was able to slow him down enough that he didn't die. My climber broke his L1 &L2 vertebrae and his right arm. If the climber was prepared and had studied up (like he said he did) this fall could have been avoided.This is a great, easy, fun climb with the appropriate gear. Bolt and small cams (1-2's will work great)
By NickMartel
From: Tucson, Arizona
Oct 3, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Very fun and varied moves! Did this TR after climbing Safe Cracker. I would NOT do this without a rack for the crack at the bottom and again maybe one more piece above the 2ed bolt. There are 2 bolts at 30' and 40' on a 60' climb so this is NOT a sport climb. Be safe and don't make the mistake the previous posters friend did.
By Brandon Baldwin
From: Sahuarita, AZ
Feb 13, 2013

I struggled trying to place a nut midway up the climb on an awkward stance. Gave up on the nuts and placed a #2 TCU that went in very clean. I placed a few other nuts and cams in addition to the bolts, but the rest were fairly straight forward from good stances.
By Paul Zander
From: Tucson, AZ
May 5, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Maybe something has changed since 2009, and I'm not trying to dismiss what sounds like a very serious accident, but Kelsey's comments do not seem accurate to me. There is no 15 foot runout between the 1st and 2nd bolts. Its closer to 6-8 feet between them. IMO, gear is recommended before the 1st bolt, and somewhat optional on the 5.5 terrain above the 2nd bolt. The gear is a little tricky to place before the bolts, but once I got to the 1st bolt, the rest of the climb felt pretty safe.
By Austin Sobotka
From: Tucson, AZ
May 15, 2015
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Forgoing the crimps around the crack makes for nice, thoughtful movement (and, so say I, better climbing).
By Eric Sophiea
Nov 27, 2016

Paul Zander: you may be thinking of a different route. The second bolt is DEFINITELY more than 10ft above the 1st and there is DEFINITELY a big ground fall potential before reaching it. This is a trad climb and merits placing gear between the 1st and 2nd bolt.
By Mike Kane
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 7, 2016
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R

There was another serious accident on this route over Thanksgiving weekend. Please DO NOT climb this without gear. It is likely PG-13 even with gear
By 1Eric Rhicard
Dec 7, 2016

People need to assess risks of a fall. It isn't a game and it can seriously alter or end you life. Be cautious until you are good enough to make a clear choice with a clue to the risks involved.
By jgfox
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 8, 2016

I'm the climber that fell and broke his ankle recently. I fell maybe six or seven feet below the second bolt and fell a good 15 feet when my belayer pulled out as much slack as he could. I must of slammed into the rock wall at a weird angle, I did have my knees bent preparing to hit something. A broken ankle is a fair deal considering what it could of been if I made it up higher and fell. I'll probably write more on my overdue accident report.

Bring cams, they will probably hold well on this rock if set correctly and not marginally.

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