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Apparation Rock (Rear)
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Amsterdam S 
Mr. Kromm's Last Hurrah T 
No Sleep Till Brooklyn S 
Shish-Ka-Bill S 

Mr. Kromm's Last Hurrah 

YDS: 5.2 French: 3 Ewbanks: 8 UIAA: II ZA: 8 British: D 2c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.2 French: 3 Ewbanks: 8 UIAA: II ZA: 8 British: D 2c [details]
FA: Don't know yet
Page Views: 324
Submitted By: RickG Gutz on Jan 19, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Preliminary route map for right side of Apparition...

Description 

There are three bolted face climbs on the backside of Apparation Rock. This is a beginners route to the right of Shish-Ka-Bill. It starts on a boulder to the right of the bush and follows an easy staircase climb up until it reaches a small standing platform.

Once you reach this platform you can use a quickdraw on the 4th bolt from Sish-Ka-Bill for the last half of the route. The second half follows the middle of the crack, using the nice hand-holds towards the top, and eventually ends on another platform. You can then follow the side of the peak to the top anchors of Shish-Ka-Bill.

A great introductory sports climb to learn using quick-draws and setting up a top-rope climb from the top without having to climb the 5.8 if you are not ready. Once setup, it is a great test for beginners to do laps on. Especially focusing on weight shift and hand holds on the top half.

Location 

Located on the backside of Apparation Rock. Hike around the left (east) side of Apparation Rock. Rap from anchors on top of climb.

Protection 

There is a shared bolt in the middle of the rote. The first half of the route is a rather easy stair climb up to the bolt. After finishing the second half up to a platform, there is an easy climb to access the top chains.


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By toddgordon Gordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Jan 20, 2016

not really a sport climb if you have to use trad gear.
By RickG Gutz
From: Moorpark, CA
Jan 21, 2016

Hey Todd, thanks for the comment. I actually started doing this route and thought when I exited that it would have deleted it. I was surprised to see your comment!

I was battling on whether to add it or not. I am a total noob at this, so I felt completely inadequate to the task of adding a route - or even knowing if it was right.

In the end I decided to add it simply because I found it very exciting for what I was doing this weekend - setting up a climb for our scouts. And they really enjoyed it. It was challenging for them, and yet they were learning some great basic lessons in weight shift and hand holds. We had done Morbid Mound in years past and they all said this was a lot more fun.

In regard to your comment, you are right. I'm not sure how to classify this since I borrowed two points of Shish-Ka-Bill. The middle bolt is where I climbed up to and used a quickdraw before climbing up to the next platform. I was going to just set up anchors there but decided to climb up the side and use the Shish-Ka-Bill top anchors as a top-rope setup for the scouts. It was a very easy climb and I didn't feel like I needed any protection, but some might.

Any suggestions would be appreciated, including if this should be deleted in the first place.

(PS - the name is a way to recognize one of our leaders who made this trip as his last after 35 years as a scoutmaster - felt it was appropriate).

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