REI Community
Two Faces Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dr. Jekyll T 
Mr. Hyde T 

Mr. Hyde 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b PG13

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 230'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Thrbjorn Enevold and Trond Solberg 1999
Page Views: 187
Submitted By: Ryan Williams on Jul 10, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
The final bits of P2 of Mr Hyde.


I won't give this route an R rating since I've never seen it described that way. It would not receive an R rating in North Carolina, but it probably would in newer climbing areas. It is protectable, but it is also serious. The newest guide describes it as "altogether a more memorable and scary experience [compared to Dr. Jekyll]."

The route starts below a few faint flakes that lead to a chunk of quartz. Climb to this and then head right over some obvious water streaks, using a this crack for protection. 5.10. Belay at the large dish on the right (bring big wires or cams for belay).

The second pitch heads back left. A bolt protects the tricky traverse out onto the face and then a thin seam/flake is all you get. The climbing is sustained and the protection is very thin and spaced. Bring brass offsets or microwires and a few Aliens. Ball nuts might be useful. 5.10+.

Use the same bolted belay as Dr. Jekyll. Abseil descent.


Right side of the face. First pitch is marked by a huge chunk of quartz about 30 feet up, followed by some dark water streaks.


Rack of wires from micros to large. Bring the best tiny stuff you have, you'll need it. Also Aliens or c3's or small cams are useful and ball nuts if you choose.

Photos of Mr. Hyde Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The cracks of the first pitch can be seen here, fo...
BETA PHOTO: The cracks of the first pitch can be seen here, fo...

Comments on Mr. Hyde Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About