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Mr. Green Slings 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,236
Submitted By: Steve Marr on Nov 9, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
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Nate working the moves through the odd roof crux o...

Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>>


Climb the short, easy crack at the back of a shallow dihedral past a horizontal crack to a ledge. This is where the fun starts. Climb the face above the ledge with a crack and headwall on the left to an overhang. The face is covered with lichen and is smooth, making the stance below the roof difficult to maintain for long. The crux is pulling through the roof. The crux moves protect very well with a large cam (#3.5 or #4 Camalot) and a large stopper above the roof. Match hands on the crack, lean away, and through up a heel. Transfer your weight and mantle up to a good stance above the roof. Continue up the crack and walk off the top.


Located about half way down the wall. There is a large cedar tree on the upper ledge that marks the top of a couple of bolted routes. From these bolted routes, continue down the wall past a nice hand crack that splits the entire wall (Yee Haw). Look for a somewhat rotten looking crack in the back of a shallow dihedral with a small roof higher up on the route.


Standard rack, bring a #3.5 or #4 Camalot for the crux. Anchor off trees.

Photos of Mr. Green Slings Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Lan with the tree start. I was unable to move the ...
Lan with the tree start. I was unable to move the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Just above the roof crux on Mr. Green Slings.
Just above the roof crux on Mr. Green Slings.

Comments on Mr. Green Slings Add Comment
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By Craig Childre
From: Lubbock, Texas
Nov 30, 2011

BETA ALERT!... Enjoying the benefit of watching my partner pump out and peel trying to protect the crux roof, I took the lead. I breezed up to his high point, a stupid easy back step high on the left atop the right facing corner provided a no-hands stance for a relaxing gear placement. The crux section is 5.7 from this stance, least according to my measure. A good route to break into 5.8's.
By Eric Klammer
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 24, 2014

I must have misread this climb something fierce, haha. Took multiple falls at the crux trying to figure out how to get my body over that freakin' bulge!! Great climb, super fun and interesting moves on great rock!
By Chris Walden
From: Soldotna, Alaska
Oct 12, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

Easy climbing to the first ledge right before the slick slab and roof crux. I guessed I missed the easy hands free back step (as Craig mentions above ^^^) because pulling over the roof is a pretty stout move, felt more like 5.9. There are two cracks that run up the roof, the one on the right is thin but offers a great high right hand. From here you can work your hands higher, throw a foot up and make the move to get over.

Protects well .75 to #4. I placed a #3 right below the roof and now see in the notes above about placing a nut in the crack. If you do/can place a nut up high that would really protect the crux because having pro beneath the roof and taking a fall off the bulge would whip you hard into the face underneath. So PG-13 with pro underneath the roof, however, if you can get a nut/cam in the crack above the roof before pulling the crux should be good to go.

Awesome climb and a must do on upper MS.

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