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A good route on great rock with bad lichen. It needs a good clean brushing! This route merits 2 stars as is and has potential for 3 if it gets cleaned up. The climb is even better if finished via Auto Repair
in a single 140' pitch. Auto Repair is already clean....
From the single bolt belay stance (backed up by gear), reach up and left out of a corner to clip an bolt then move over to a jug (hard for short people). Mantle the jug (balancy) then clip another bolt before moving up onto the slab (crux) and following a line of bolts to a ledge with an anchor- your starting point. All of the hard climbing is on clean rock, but the upper slab was not brushed down other than the few necessary holds. Cleaning this would produce a nicer climb.
Belay at the anchor, or continue ON GEAR (include a few fist+ sized pieces if you are squeamish) on Auto Repair
To reach this line, start on the 'starting ledge' as arrived from the approach trail. Look East and tunnel through the formation behind a huge boulder, arriving 30' East at a 2-bolt rap station. Rap down 65' to a ledge with a single bolt belay station that can be backed up by gear. You will pass a licheny face with 5 bolts on the way down- giving you perfect opportunity to scrape or brush the climb... which it needs.
5 draws for clipping the bolts plus something to clip into the bolted anchor at the bottom and top. The bottom belay anchor is a single bolt intended to be backed up by a 2.5-3" cam.
By Ross Swanson
From: Pinewood Springs
Oct 3, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Since Little Narrows is a 5.10, then this climb seems like it'll have to be a 5.9.
By George Bracksieck
Oct 6, 2011
Ross -- If you are tall, as you (and Bernard Gillett) are, it may seem like 5.9, and you were following with an almost-snug rope. Because I couldn't see you from above, I had the rope pulled up all the way, so any stretch wouldn't let you ledge out if you popped off of the opening (crux) moves.