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Bolting the climb.
The new route uphill a short way from the Cool World Direct
start. Tricky mantel at the first bolt is the crux. Headwall above is really fun! The bolts follow the good rock so stay close to them. The steep part gives way to a nice high slab. move to the right to find the anchor. Best to belay a second at the top and then rap. A fun shady route to add to the beginning or end of a day.
Scramble up the scree slope a short ways above Cool World Direct
. An ok landing is built at the start. The first 10 feet, I admit, is pretty loose. We didn't do a great job of cleaning down low. But more traffic will help. Up high, follow the bolt line precisely. The few complaints about loose rock up high were from climbing too far away from the bolts.
All bolts 10+chain (I think)
The "Istian" brothers working out the FA...
By Tristan Higbee
From: Ogden, UT
Apr 13, 2008
FA was Summer 2005.
When we did this route, I remember that I thought it was the best 5.8 in the canyon. There was definitely bias there, but it's still a good climb.