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Third Buttress
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Mr. Cute 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
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Submitted By: Felix Duvallet on Jun 2, 2011

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Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Excellent climbing! After clipping the second bolt traverse right to make a big move over a bulge, then move back left. Get a good rest and get ready to savor the overhanging face above.

Location 

There are two big scooped huecos that are fairly obvious at ground level, this climb begins inside the right one.

Protection 

8 bolts, bolt anchor


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By CodyLG
May 31, 2016
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R

My favorite of the climbs I tried during my visit. Not a great climb to try and break into 5.11 territory. Traverse out right is v0 bouldering with broken bone (20 ft grounder) consequences. Direct variation involves solid v6 3-move sequence from half-pad crimp to nasty sloper bump. Going for bolt 6 also offers a nice whip to a ledge below if you don't fall well. Sick climb.
By Tim Salizzoni
Sep 6, 2016
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Don't be scared off by the above poster. While I agree you don't want to blow the end of the traverse, the feet and hands are both great for all the moves. The fall at bolt 6 is fine too. This climb is a great intro to the grade with good holds, good movement, and ample rests. This is a pretty popular first 11 as well. Do this climb.