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Mr. Critical 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Neil Kauffman, Trevor Bowman, Joel Kauffman, Alf 4/10/11
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 974
Submitted By: Trevor Bowman on Apr 17, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Joel wriggling up the crux section.

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A splitter, crescent-shaped OW into squeeze chimney. Quite clean, as it's been water-worn over the eons, somewhat like the Drainpipe in Donnelly.

A couple butterflies lead to stacks/kneelocks and into the crux stretch of chickenwings and heel-toeing; the squeeze gradually widens and you can fully burrow in before finishing up an unexpected handcrack on the left wall to the belay ledge. A great blue-collar trainer!


Location 

About 5 minutes to the left of Bunny Slope. No plaque, but anchors are visible and the route will be obvious from the pictures.

Protection 

(1)#2,old #4, new #5, new #6 Camalots, blue big bro, slings. Chain anchors.



Photos of Mr. Critical Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Neil drilling the anchors on the FA.
Neil drilling the anchors on the FA.

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