|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 140'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]|
|FA:||Vernon Phinney & Mike Engle-1985|
|Submitted By:||Cameron Luth on Oct 31, 2006|
|Check NPS for Closures|
|Comments on Mr. Critical||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Jul 15, 2008
|Highly recommend this route. Just wonderful climbing. Side note: last two bolts are rusted/thin and in need of replacement. But the belay anchors are new, beefy, and well-equalized.|
By Chris treggE
From: Madison, WI
Jul 23, 2009
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
|I walked by and under this route many times in the preceding 5 years, each time looking up longingly and then coming up with some lame excuse for not going for it. It really boiled down to intimidation. The route is long, mostly vertical, and looks serious. Other 11's at Rushmore are very tricky and can be very balancy and beta intensive. Well, this year was it. Go for it, I say. Superb route!!! It was the best route I've ever done. Most memorable anyway, super fun every step of the way. Every varied move, crimp, balance, slab, the feel of the rock, the rests, the breeze, the pine tree scent, Harley's on the road, it's all fantastic. Do it!! Don't wait 5 years like I did. Oh, and I'm 5'10" and although I brought my #3 camalot, I didn't need or place it. I could reach the bolt above the bulge.|
By Ryan Angelo
Jul 7, 2011
|It can be done with a single 70m. Great Route!|
Jul 14, 2013
|badass climb, serious credit to all you Rushmore climbers|
By vernon phinney
From: pocatello, idaho
Jul 10, 2015
Derivation of the name: "Mr. Critical". The methods of establishing this route were meant to provide climbers numerous topics to criticize!
1) At the time, Devil's Tower first ascensionists were criticizing the style being used in the Black Hills for establishing new routes (ie; ground up using NO AID!) Mr. Critical was put in using top down ethics - bolting on rappel.
2) The route was top-roped first to assess the quality of the climb/rock.
3) The route essentially goes up a face just to the left of a CRACK!
4) The initial bolt hangers were multi-colored (painted), with stripes, polka-dots, etc. George and Joane Urioste (Red Rocks, NV) also used painted hangers previously.
5) There is a large weakness near the top that could be used to escape the route; but you must pull the bulge and ascend a short face to actually claim that you have climbed the route!
6) A register was left at the top to collect ALL criticism from climbers; it would be great if a register was maintained - HARD to do!
Criticism was welcomed and expected! Not a surprise that Mr. Critical gets sooo-much praise, however!! Vernon Phinney