REI Community
303 Spire (aka Canoehead Spire)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Mr Canoehead T 
Mrs Canoehead T 
Sawblade, The T,TR 

Mr Canoehead 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Steve Sangdahl, solo, circa 1981
Page Views: 1,008
Submitted By: Tradiban on Jun 11, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Chris McElroy leading Mr. Canoehead with preplaced...

Description 

On the river side of the "Mr Canoehead" spire is the route Mr. Canoehead.

Location 

Riverside of "Mr Canoehead" or "303 Spire".

Protection 

Trad.


Photos of Mr Canoehead Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike in the middle
Mike in the middle
Rock Climbing Photo: Kaytie Nagle following Mr. Canoehead
Kaytie Nagle following Mr. Canoehead
Rock Climbing Photo: Mr Canoehead
BETA PHOTO: Mr Canoehead
Rock Climbing Photo: Kaytie Nagle belaying Mr. Canoehead
Kaytie Nagle belaying Mr. Canoehead
Rock Climbing Photo: Mr Canoehead.
BETA PHOTO: Mr Canoehead.

Comments on Mr Canoehead Add Comment
Show which comments
By GenericEric
From: 53913
Jun 15, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I lead this climb and i'm still not sure why. It was the end of the day, my partner was growing tired, so i said, lets give this a quick go and then get out of here. It seemed very easy for a 5.7. And by the time you feel like your actually off the ground, your at the top. Additionally, the rap down was a bit sketch (no obvious walk off/easy down climb that i saw). I rapped off a large pine tree about 10 feet left of the top out and ran the rope over a ledge to be able to retrieve the one cam and nut i placed. In my opinion, necedah offers some really cool classic routes, stick to those.
By jon jugenheimer
Administrator
From: Madison
Oct 11, 2015

Just added two anchors to the top of this climb today. I believe (although short) that this is an excellent lead for the budding tradster.
By Mike Robinson
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 14, 2015

Awesome anchor addition Jon. I agree with your sentiment on a good but short lead. I never liked figuring out how to get off it though!
By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Nov 30, 2015

FA Steve Sangdahl , solo circa 1981
By Doorbluff
From: Stevens Point, WI
May 7, 2017

This route is really fun and moderate. My first trad lead! Plenty of options for gear as well. I used a #2 C4, a couple of stoppers, a blue .3 x4 for the flaring crack towards the top and lastly a red torque nut right before the last moves to the anchor. Great climb and thanks to Jon for the anchors.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About