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The "Gimme Some" Dome
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Amar-EZ TR 
Blonde Ambition TR 
Easy Blondes TR 
Hollow Headed Blondes TR 
Mr. Blond TR 
Should I Stay Or Should I Go? TR 

Mr. Blond 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: MP User: Slopers, Nick Martel
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 401
Submitted By: NickMartel on Sep 21, 2011

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Me lowering off after the second ascent

Description 

Slab climbing on super textured low angle to almost vertical wall. Mostly footwork and crimpers with a couple jugs near the top. moving to the right anywhere along the route makes it easier (5.6).

Location 

All the way to the right side of the main wall. 7' or so to the right of "Blonde Ambition". Start where the little 6-8' tall side wall to your right meets the main wall, or traverse right to left across the little side wall (try to avoid the jugs on top of this side wall, or use them, but the alternate start is designed to add a 2ed tough part) to the normal start. Near the top you should end up using the 1.5' tall flake with your left hand, or at least be close (1-2') to it, if you are right of this then you went too far right and did the 5.6 variation.

Protection 

Top rope chain anchor. We will eventually drill for lead once we finish the rest of the TR anchors on the dome. You can top rope directly off the chains but you can lessen rope drag by extending the anchors with shoulder length (or longer) slings without missing out on good climbing because it is low angle from the top of the crux section to the chains.


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By NickMartel
From: Tucson, Arizona
Sep 22, 2011

I (and a few people who have come out with me) have cleaned a lot of loose rock off the face. 95% of it is gone. A little traffic and the last 5% will come off but for the time being have your belayer stand a bit off to the side NOT directly nder you. Since the walll is entirely TR for the time being makeing falls <1' the WORST thing that can happen if a handhold or foothold comes off is for it to land on your belayer.

PM me any questions, ideas, recomendations, thoughts, ect...

Climb Safe, Have Fun.

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