|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 60'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA:||Paul Teare, 1999|
|Submitted By:||Rick D on Jan 4, 2009|
|Comments on Mr. Bigglesworth||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 6, 2009
|Did Balkenbush lead the climb with the existing bolts or free it on TR?|
By Brian Biega
Mar 17, 2009
First time posting here.
Climbed Mr. Bigglesworth 5+ years ago. Onsight, no falls and no problem with the four bolts and additional gear placements. The climb was in the 5.11- range and was certainly a great addition to the already established climbs.
It's a pity that routes get retro bolted by climbers who don't have prior knowledge of the area and/or tradition. The challenge of working any additional gear only adds to the fun. This route resembles many of the Tahoe classics challenging the leader to place natural protection.
Adding additional bolts to existing routes changes the quality and adventure of the 1st ascent.
Mar 29, 2010
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
|I'm not sure i quite agree with the 5.11- grade posted on this climb, because it is much harder than "Total Recall" 5.11b and it is very sustained and has multiple cruxes. Otherwise this is an amazing route testing both your physical ability to climb and your mental ability with the committing runout at the bottom then the RP placements higher up in the small seam. (Similar to Joshua Tree routes in the more demanding sense then the clip and go sport routes commonly found around the U.S.)|
By Colonel Mustard
From: Sacramento, CA
Nov 5, 2011
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
|The grade seems spot on to me. It just depends on your strengths. For example, I found Total Recall to be a bit harder. This climb is uber classic though and would be a much ballyhooed ***** classic in areas like Joshua Tree (similar climbing style). I just have to muster the requisite cajones to lead it now. It's that high first bolt with the requisite smeary moves and deck potential that keeps getting me.|