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Mr. B Cranks a Feces 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Drew Bedford, Conrad Anker, 1987
Page Views: 69
Submitted By: John Steiger on Jul 2, 2017

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Description 

Start up a left-leaning finger crack over a bulge, then work out a right-diagonalling crack to a short left-facing dihedral. Continue up the dihedral and crack system above to (new) chains. Ruckmans’ 1998 guide describes the route as climbing the “broken face” above the initial left-leaning finger crack, but Drew and Conrad climbed the line described here.

After I climbed this route the first time, I went back and spent several hours cleaning it producing what I thought was a much better climbing experience than the scatological reference in the name suggests. I asked Drew if I could drop the reference to bodily waste in posting up the route, so folks might be more encouraged to climb it, and he was agreeable, suggesting it be renamed “Bury the Hatchet.” In light of Merrill’s Ms. Luval Cranks a Thesis uphill, and sensing a good story, I pushed him to explain where the original name came from. You’ll have to ply him with adult beverages for more, but suffice it to say that he and Merrill were in a bit of a contretemps regarding climbing ethics – not unusual as bolting exploded in the 1980s – and the name of this route reflects, as Drew put it, his “maturity” at the time. They’re decades-long friends now, of course (not to mention old men), hence Drew’s suggested new name. Having heard the story, though, I thought the original name is infused with too much lore to change. If you like BCC trad, this route is very worthwhile (a little detritus may remain, but it is easily dealt with).

Location 

You'll find Mr. B four switchbacks up from the bottom of the gully (the trail passes right under the opening thin crack -- hard to miss).

Protection 

Nuts, a double set of cams to 2" (yellow Camalot) and a 3" cam (blue Camalot) will sew it up.


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