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Mozart's Wall Climbing
Routes in Mozart's Wall
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Amadeus TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Amadeus II TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Center Route TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Face V0 4 |
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Far Left Route TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Left Hand TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mozart's Wall Traverse V0 4 |
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Mr. Toad's Wild Ride V-easy 3 R |
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Quickstep V2 5+ |
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Right Edge TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a V-easy 3 |
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Unnamed Arete V0 4 |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
| Elevation: | 1,132 ft |
| GPS: |
34.27129, -118.60359 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 40,582 total · 197/month |
| Shared By: | Jordan Ramey on May 4, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | Chris Owen, jt512, Nicole Wiesenthal, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: RAIN & WET ROCK
Details
Stoney Point sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many gyms in the area if you need a fix!
Description
North Facing Wall. Shaded in the early morning. Bottom half probably remains somewhat shaded throughout the day, but not sure. Several (4) TR anchors on top so this wall will probably see crowds on the weekend. Climbs range from 5.5 - 5.10+ depending on the variations. It is about 45-50' tall and is a great wall to work on footwork and spotting holds.
Check the bolts before blindly trusting them. The farthest east bolt seems to move in its hole a little. The back bolt on the three bolt anchor at the far west down on the shelf has somewhat loose nuts, so make sure they are tight. Be sure to use more than 1 bolt and equalize them.
When the wall is busy, ask before clipping to a bolt someone else is already using. I am fairly sure as many as four ropes can be run on this wall, but that will make it fairly busy.
Check the bolts before blindly trusting them. The farthest east bolt seems to move in its hole a little. The back bolt on the three bolt anchor at the far west down on the shelf has somewhat loose nuts, so make sure they are tight. Be sure to use more than 1 bolt and equalize them.
When the wall is busy, ask before clipping to a bolt someone else is already using. I am fairly sure as many as four ropes can be run on this wall, but that will make it fairly busy.
Getting There
North Facing wall just west of Beethoven's Wall. Follow the trail around and from Beethoven, hugging the cliffside, and it's just up on the left. You'll know you're there when you're in the mostly-shaded belaying area and see two very clear potholes on the face around 12' up.
Walk up to the top from the west gully. If you're facing the wall, it's an easy scramble up to the top from the left (east) side.
Classic Climbing Routes at Mozart's Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Guidebooks (4)
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