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Moxie 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Dick Williams, Bob Anderson, Steve Lessin, 1973.
Page Views: 750
Submitted By: John Peterson on Apr 15, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Description 

This is a short corner climb near White Pillar. The crux is the corner -- it felt pretty stiff for 5.8+. Start below and left, making a few hard steep-face moves as you approach the corner.

Rap tree anchor.

Location 

Probably the best way to find this route is to go to White Pillar and then backtrack about 100' The route follows a clean and appealing left-facing corner that starts a bit off the ground. It's also just right of the striking right-leaning white flake of Giddah!

Protection 

I found the crux hard to protect until I noticed a spot for a ball nut. A passing climber informed me that the only good pro for the crux was that ball nut that I had placed. There's other pro down lower but the ball nut made me way happier.


Comments on Moxie Add Comment
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By Dana Bartlett
From: CT
May 2, 2009

I just did this recently, and I found a placement for a TCU (Metolius, purple) that provided good protection for the crux. A Ballnut may well be helpful but for me, it wasn't essential.
By gblauer Blauer
From: Wayne, PA
Apr 22, 2014

Tricky Tricky Tricky. Once you figure it out, it's fun. Puzzling at first.
There is a tree with rings/slings at the top of P1.
By SethG
Apr 23, 2014

As of 2013 there was a tree with a fixed anchor, maybe this is a different tree from the one that fell.

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