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Mowgli Grape 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: keith becconsoll 5/06
Page Views: 1,886
Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (55)
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Joe toproping Mowgli Grape

Description 

Starting at the base of Dirtigo, climb up an left to the arete at the right side of the dirty section of rock. Follow face holds up along the edge with a few comfortable stances. You eventually meet up with the original finish to Dirtigo and gain the quick clips.

The climbing is much like Dirtigo and not much harder, so if you can lead one you can likely lead the other.

Location 

Just left of Dirtigo (5.3) is another line of bolts, this one following the arete.

Protection 

Roughly the same number of bolts as Dirtigo to quick clips.


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Rock Climbing Photo: The view from the top of Mowgli Grape... not bad f...
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Comments on Mowgli Grape Add Comment
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By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Jul 6, 2009
rating: 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c

This route is fun, but it does not have quick clips it just has glue-ins for the anchors ( to lower have the final climb traverse over to Dirtago's anchors and you can easily lower from there), and a bolt is place very weird as it is in a little concave facing the sky. also the is a bolt by the small bush on the way up, it is easily missed. But overall a fun route
By cjdrover
From: Watertown, MA
Aug 2, 2010

Hardware must have been updated in the last year - there are now quick clips on both anchors.
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Aug 3, 2010
rating: 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c

The quick clips are rumored to be added by Richard Parker, he has been going around and updating anchors on routes he uses when he guides. I think its pretty cool of him to aknowledge that he puts wear into the anchors and fixes them. A big thanks to Richard.
By J Meagher
Nov 13, 2013
rating: 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c

The quick clips on this are getting pretty rusty as of august 2013. One of them no longer closes on its own and both have rust all over. I'll try to post a picture if I can. I understand this really isn't a priority route but it could use replacements
By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Jun 29, 2014

I was on Mowgli Grape with my daughter on Saturday, and both of the biners on the quick clips at the top are broken. The gates have no spring action and just flip-flop. Because this is a route climbed by many beginners, it's good to know (in advance) what's going on with the anchors at the top.
By George Grzyb
Sep 30, 2014

Lower offs definitely need to be replaced on this one. Someone has taped the gates shut, so its useful (safer) to go into direct, rethread and retie in, and then lower.
By Jonathan Steitzer
From: West Lebanon, NH
Jun 23, 2017
rating: 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c

Some notes:

  • Lower offs are fine. A little rusty but it's just cosmetic rust. Treat them as rap rings to use them. Absolutely no need to replace them.

  • Some of the bolts are behind ledges. Bring a couple short slings, or double up your quickdraws on them, or skip them to reduce rope drag.

  • This climb is excellent. Fun aesthetic climbing at the grade, traverse as low as possible left on the first 3 to really get the full value.

  • If Clip a Dee Doo Dah is a 5.3, this thing is a 5.2 max. It's steep, but dead easy with great feet and great hands. Literally a ladder.

Highly recommended for everyone.

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