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Moving to Montana 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 500', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13 [details]
FA: Perry Beckham
Season: late summer (slow to dry)
Page Views: 315
Submitted By: Tim Bonnell on Aug 1, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Description 

An engaging route with some excellent face/slab climbing. Moving to Montana is very similar in style and quality to Cruel Shoes, just a little harder and a bit more heady.

This climb has been retro-scrubbed and its rusty 1/4" bolts were replaced in an excellent gesture of public service.

p1 (11a): Originally graded 10d, I think this pitch should be bumped up as the recent cleaning removed a stump that provided a key rest/foothold. Some easy climbing gets you to a bolt, but the the next 15' are hard and a bit scary. You then get a great rest before a section of sustained tips laybacking/smearing.

p2 (10a): I've seen this pitch rated 5.9 and 10b but I think 10a is reasonable. From the belay climb some easy cracks to an overlap before boldly breaking out left onto the slab where a bolt will get you to the belay.

p3 (10c): Tricky face climbing past 2 bolts leads to a 'memorable mantle' that must be executed before you get the 3rd bolt. The runout is about 20' and the mantle move is probably about 5.8 or 9. Move left into a nice crack and under-cling it as it arches right past another couple of bolts. A long and excellent pitch.

p4 (11a): The Money. Step down from the belay and traverse right along an under-cling with good pro. Climb up on the hanging slab at the obvious opportunity and move up easily to clip a bolt. Weave a devious line up and down across the slab past 3 more bolts, sustained all the way to the anchor.

Location 

Scramble up just left of Flex Capacitor to a bolted station.

Protection 

Doubles from small (purple metolius) to #1 (red) camalots, singles in #2 and #3. A single grey metolius (or equivalent) is not a bad idea, but not critical


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