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Moving Out 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Alan Nelson, 1991
Page Views: 2,851
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on May 7, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (36)
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Nice work, Max!! Great send today!!! Jay, you we...

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  • Description 

    Moving Out starts in a shallow corner system at the right end of Primo Wall just above the slabs. This route starts hard with some very in-obvious fingery moves in the corner. After no more than 10 or 12 feet the routes settles back for several reasonable moves. However, the first 10 ft may be the crux and probably more like 5.12a/b than 5.12a splitting hairs, I know). Slip out of the dihedral on some full-hand blocks to get a good stance before leading off into the second 5.12 crux. This sequence reminded me of The Crystal Tower route, Quartz Sports. It is a lot more delicate than it is powerful, and the feet leading into an undercling crux are pretty slender. Haul out of the undercling onto some Thank-God jugs, a few clips on moderate terrain, and the anchor. Two stars for sure. The climbing is tricky, fingery, powerful, and continuous. Personally, I get on Moving Out almost every time I go to Primo Wall. I'd pour Alan's beer myself for this fine addition.


    QD only. This 50 foot route needs just half a dozen draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.

    Photos of Moving Out Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Logan heading up Moving Out.
    Logan heading up Moving Out.
    Rock Climbing Photo: With Jay van Sam on the rope controls Max works hi...
    With Jay van Sam on the rope controls Max works hi...

    Comments on Moving Out Add Comment
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    By Nate Weitzel
    Aug 5, 2001

    I found this route to be one of the better 12b's in the canyon. The climbing is technical, delicate, but also needs lots of power. Keep a close eye on the feet and you are well on your way to this one.
    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    Oct 17, 2001

    I still haven't repeated this route after doing it 5 years ago and personally think it to be more like 12c. There may be a height thing involved.
    By Darren Mabe
    From: Flagstaff, AZ
    Jul 8, 2005
    rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

    Excellent and sustained the whole way. I suppose I would agree that the first crux (12a) is a bit height dependent. (but hey, arent they all?) The second crux (12b) is a clever sequence of setting up to move out to the crack/lieback.
    By Erik Durgin
    Apr 17, 2007
    rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

    Totaly Rad!!! the most solid 12b I've done in the canyon. It was really hard for me! but I think thats because I'm bad at using my feet, so the second crux kinda turned into a heinous campus move (not recommended).
    If you can, GET ON DAT SHIT.
    By Luke Childers
    Jan 17, 2010
    rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

    Climbed on this again for the 1st time in a long time and found it to be just as great as it was then!! A fine line at its grade. It's one of my favorites for sure!!!
    By GeoffElson Elson
    Sep 17, 2011

    I am relieved to hear the cast of characters above discussing the difficulty but goodness of this route, as I go my a** handed to me on my first session. I agree this is easily the hardest 12b in the Canyon and would hold the grade almost anywhere. Really fun, difficult, and technical climbing, a most do.
    By noah gostout
    From: Iqaluit, Nunavut
    Aug 11, 2014

    I got on this route at the end of the day today, and aside from struggling, I was curious about some off route looking holds near the top. At the top of the dihedral, does the original route go up through a crimp to a jug that you can swing left from, or does it go left under the roof on the heinously over-chalked face hold (all holds up there are pretty caked with chalk I guess)?
    By Mark E Dixon
    From: Sprezzatura, Someday
    May 23, 2017

    I put semi-permadraws on bolts 2-6 today. I plan to take them down as soon as I send the route or give up. I'll leave the added Mussys at the anchors.

    If hanging the draws or eventually removing them is going to keep you up at night worrying about the future of American climbing, just send me a PM, and I'm sure we can work something out.

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