Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Movement screening before training
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
Page 1 of 1.  
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
Jan 29, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Belledonne skiing Cime du Sambuis
Has anyone gone through a formal movement screening process and corrective protocols before training for climbing? Any personal experiences and/or recommendations?

For formal screening I am referring to FMS, SFMA, PRI, JEMS, TRI, (others?)
Rui Ferreira
From Longmont, CO
Joined Jul 2, 2003
884 points
Jan 29, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Spoonless in the Obed.
I have not, but I bought the Gray Cook text, "Movement", which I believe outlines the assessments you're referring to. It's very thorough, and I tried to do several of the assessments with the help of my wife. I basically failed most of the big ones (no surprise there), as I'm not known for my amazing ROM. I was a bit overwhelmed by all the sub-assessments and didn't pursue it further. It would be probably best to have someone who knows what they're doing do these, but I'm not sure who does them locally. evan h
From Denver, CO
Joined Oct 3, 2012
263 points
Jan 29, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Belledonne skiing Cime du Sambuis
The FMS website provides a list of certified FMS and SFMA providers and it appears to be extensive in the Front Range for those certified at level 1, but not so much for level 2 certified providers.

The key seems to be in knowing what to do with the test results and the person that provides the test may not necessarily be qualified in restoring mobility followed by the accompanying stability (corrective protocols). According to the FMS certification level 2 goes into the actual corrective protocols, whether it is necessary and/or sufficient I don't know.


Either way it appears to be a wise approach to have some formal movement assessment and address movement inefficiencies before getting into any sort of strength training program.
Rui Ferreira
From Longmont, CO
Joined Jul 2, 2003
884 points
Jul 13, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Spoonless in the Obed.
Rui, did you ever move forward with one of these screening protocols? I've been thinking about it, but wanted to know if your experience (if you have one) would justify the potential expense? As you mention, there are many Front Range providers, but I'm more interested in the next steps (corrective protocols). Thanks. evan h
From Denver, CO
Joined Oct 3, 2012
263 points
Jul 13, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Belledonne skiing Cime du Sambuis
Evan,

I did not get a stand alone screening, but was evaluated by a physical and sports performance therapist when I went in for medial epicondylitis. He highlighted some areas with upper shoulder mobility and thoracic extension that needed improvement.

There are several sources online to conduct the FMS on your own and other websites detail corrective exercises to address problem areas. I can look through my web links if you need more information.

In general I do mobility drills every time I climb as part of the warm-up routine and it keeps me relatively injury free.
Rui Ferreira
From Longmont, CO
Joined Jul 2, 2003
884 points
Jul 13, 2016
Can you post the links?
This sounds like some valuable information people developing their own training plan.
John Greer Jr.
From modesto, ca
Joined Jun 4, 2009
99 points
Jul 13, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Belledonne skiing Cime du Sambuis
John,

for a basic introduction on Movement based on Gray Cook's "philosophy" read this

functionalmovement.com/article...

Here the video link on administering the self FMS test



And once you have obtained the results if there is anything that needs improvement follow this series of videos of corrections and progressions, starting with the straight leg raise, if this is OK then go on to other videos in their website addressing other deficiencies



These references only apply to the FMS screening system, but there are other systems including PRI, MAT, JEMS Movement, etc.
Rui Ferreira
From Longmont, CO
Joined Jul 2, 2003
884 points
Jul 14, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Spoonless in the Obed.
Much appreciated Rui! evan h
From Denver, CO
Joined Oct 3, 2012
263 points


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 1 of 1.