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Move Like a Stud 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b R [details]
FA: Pitch 1: Bob Crawford and Dave Anderson Pitch 2: Pat Timson and Julie Brugger 1978
Page Views: 109
Submitted By: Bruce Hildenbrand on Oct 28, 2016

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Yet another steep slab route on the Royal Arches apron with long runouts on sketchy terrain.

"Sometimes I'm sexy, move like a stud," 'Bitch' by the Rolling Stones.

As a bit of history, when guidebook author, George Meyers, put the route in his guidebook, he felt the route name was 'blatantly stupid' so he changed it to 'Move Like a Spud.' Maybe he didn't get the Rolling Stones reference.

This route was originally done in two pitches. On a very early repeat of the route, my partner leaned back at the belay at the top of the first pitch and one of the anchor bolts broke. Since then the route has been done as a single pitch.

Location 

This route is 200-300 feet uphill(north) from 1096 and just left of Benzoin and Edges. The first pitch climbs up to a bolt then out left and over a small right facing dihedral to a second bolt(crux). Next, follow eight or so bolts up and right to the anchor shared with Benzoin and Edges.

Protection 

There are 10 or so bolts on the entire route.

Thanks to the ASCA and Clint and Roger for replacing the bolts on this route in the mid-2000's.


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