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Mouthful of Chalk 

Hueco: V6 Font: 7A

   
Type:  Boulder, 20'
Original:  Hueco: V6 Font: 7A [details]
FA: Brian Nugent
Page Views: 1,230
Submitted By: Brian Nugent on May 16, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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This problem is a hidden gem for sure. Thanks for ...

Description 

Start on the obvious diagonal rail at chest height. Make a big move up and right to a small gaston crimp. From here hard heel hooking and hidden holds will take you to the slopey lip. A jug up and right of the lip makes the top out easy.

The name is because Ethan Chase bit open a chalk ball to put on a stick so we could clean the top.

Location 

On the Mad Hatter boulder. If approaching the boulders from the Devil's Den trail, get to the boulder then walk left along the boulder using a fallen tree to avoid the swamp. The face that this problem is on is opposite of a another large, sized boulder. If you stand on top of the opposing boulder you can see the lip and the jug. You should also be able to find the partially chalked rail without much trouble.

Protection 

A couple crash pads and spotters. The landing is flat but it's a bit tall.


Photos of Mouthful of Chalk Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: But how do you get back down?.... Photo: Tim Kempl...
But how do you get back down?.... Photo: Tim Kempl...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mouthful of Chalk V6
Mouthful of Chalk V6
Rock Climbing Photo: Latching the first crimp
Latching the first crimp
Rock Climbing Photo: Tim Armstrong sizing up the long move to the first...
Tim Armstrong sizing up the long move to the first...
Rock Climbing Photo: Finishing the climb after breaking the pocket (rig...
Finishing the climb after breaking the pocket (rig...
Rock Climbing Photo: This photo shows the starting hold (blue) and the ...
BETA PHOTO: This photo shows the starting hold (blue) and the ...

Comments on Mouthful of Chalk Add Comment
Show which comments
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Aug 9, 2014
rating: V6 7A

This is a really good climb and is worth seeking out. Excellent movement on good quality rock (for the most part). The line is aesthetic and the moves have nice flow to them.
By JamieRe
From: Providence, RI
Oct 20, 2014

Awesome line!!! I can't wait to finish it!
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Oct 13, 2015
rating: V6 7A

An awesome climb. Big opening move to technical crimping with great movement. A must climb.
By Graham O.
Jul 9, 2016
rating: V5 6C

Is there such thing as an extension traverse that starts on the sloping rail and traverses in from the right? It always has chalk on it. It would kind of detract from the quality but would be a good v6-7 nonetheless. I assume it has been done but I'm not really sure.

And yes, this is an epic problem with awesome, varied movement.

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