REI Community
Manure Pile Buttress (aka Ranger Rock)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
After Seven T 
After Six T 
C.S. Concerto T 
Commissioner Buttress T 
Fecophilia T 
Haley's Comet T 
Jump for Joy T,TR 
Just Do-do It T 
Mouse King T 
Nutcracker T 
Nutcracker 5.9 Start Variation T 
Renus Wrinkle T 

Mouse King 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: George Meyers, 1976
Page Views: 1,365
Submitted By: Mark Grundon on Oct 8, 2015  with updates from Marielle Breneman

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Crux moves inculding fixed hex you can see the pro...

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Less popular variation on Nutcracker, around 3rd pitch, great way to get past some crowds.

This is more of a classic Yosemite sandbagged 5.9, much harder than the Nutcracker 5.9 Start Variation.

Both variations can be linked on this climb. It's a great way for stronger climbers to avoid route congestion.

Crux at the bolts on the first pitch. Need more traffic a little sandbagged slab moves but on par for a 1976 route.

Location 

From the 5.4 ramp on Nutcracker headup the crack to the line of bolts to the right. There is a one pitch route with bolts also to the left that is not in any book currently.

Protection 

Three bolts on first pitch. On fixed hex. Well protected at cruxes. Only tricky moves with gear at your feet clipping first bolt. Second pitch has 5 1/4" bolts yet to be replaced but on easier terrain. I replaced the first pitch 1/4"ers 2015.


Comments on Mouse King Add Comment
Show which comments
By Osprey Overhang
From: ...
Oct 9, 2015

FA year 1976
By Adal Bermann
From: San Diego, California
May 24, 2017
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R

I followed my buddy who led the first (well bolted) pitch when we had agreed on doing NutCracker as a simul climb.

I then led the second pitch. After placing a small cam and then a shallow green offset peanut, I ended up leading a 30ft+ runout on rock that seems to see nearly no traffic. Lichen on the rock, crimp holds breaking off... I would not recommend this variation without some extra bolting.

This was a week ago and I did NOT see any extra bolts after the 2 bolt anchor.

Once back on route, we enjoyed making quick ascent of the Nutcracker on simul.
By Mark Grundon
Jul 28, 2017

Probably off route the bolts were there in 2015. They are pretty hard to see.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About