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Mountaineer's Route 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 7 pitches, 850', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c PG13 [details]
FA: ACB: Matt Dobbs and Jean-Luc Michaud (July 11, 2015)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 145
Submitted By: Matt D on Oct 8, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: The Stage (start of Stage Show and Mountaineer'...

Description 

The route follows the easiest line up the LHS slabs of the South Face. Variations of this line have undoubtably been climbed before. Here I describe the line we took July 11, 2015.

p1 (50m, 5.2) From the stage, traverse right to the left-ward rising arch. Follow it up until its possible to break out right and traverse right on slab to a series of overlaps (belay on slung big boulder) 

p2 (30m, 5.2) straight up to tree islands

p3 (30-40m, 5.3) traverse left and below the next tree island on slab to bottom of the large gully/crack feature, dirty in places.

p4 (30-35m,5.3) up gully/crack to a natural belay below its steep section.

p5 (30-35m, 5.4) up the the steep section of the gully/crack to slab and 15m further to a 2 fixed-point belay

p6 (60m rope stretcher, 5.4 (5.2R)) Straight up on friction past a fixed point of protection (5.4), then increasingly easy (5.2R,) until crack and left-facing overlap with a natural gear belay in a flaring crack (save two 0.5-1” cams or tricams for the belay). This is a full 60m pitch, with no gear between the bolt and the crack.

p7 (25m, 5.3) move up right over the overlap and traverse to the tree island.

Location 

Approach: starts from "the Stage", see Stage Show approach.

Descent: see Stage Show.

Protection 

Standard alpine rack. A 60m rope and 0.5-1” cams are needed for P5.


Photos of Mountaineer's Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Satellite image showing routes on Pyramid south fa...
BETA PHOTO: Satellite image showing routes on Pyramid south fa...
Rock Climbing Photo: Charlie Beard starting up p2 of Mountaineer's ...
Charlie Beard starting up p2 of Mountaineer's ...

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