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Mountaineer's Route - Main Tower 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1200', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
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Page Views: 523
Submitted By: gabe hayden on Feb 15, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Route to main tower west ridgeline. Alternate vari...

Description 

Approach: Start on glacier directly below lower climber's left corner of triangular snowfield.

Terrain is predominantly 4th class, with occasional lower 5th class. Several route variations are possible, described below is the route I felt to be safe and straightforward in summer 2015.

Climb short right facing gully off glacier to the bench below the snowfield. Skirt climber's right hand side of snowfield to point where the snowfield meets the steeper terrain. Climb to the first left-traversing ledge system above the snowfield and follow the ledges left. Ledge system ends to the climber's right of the deep gulley. Climb up from the ledge system to the ridgeline, trending left with the gulley while staying out of the rockfall zone in the actual gulley. There is a fair amount of loose rock above the gulley, so the gulley itself is best avoided. There are several viable routes through this terrain.

Gain ridgeline and follow to main tower summit through a couple 5th class steps, never straying far from ridgeline proper.

Descend Route.

Protection 

Standard alpine rack


Photos of Mountaineer's Route - Main Tower Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A look at the terrain between the snowfield and ri...
A look at the terrain between the snowfield and ri...
Rock Climbing Photo: Route ascends to notch in ridgeline above triangle...
BETA PHOTO: Route ascends to notch in ridgeline above triangle...

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