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Mountaineer's Crack 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
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Submitted By: lee hansche on Apr 20, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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jakob... climbing...


Wow there really is a crack there. I never saw it until I read about it.

Climb the handcrack laying back mostly. Scramble across the ledge to where you can see the crack running up a corner. Jam and chimney up the corner to a stance and climb the last few feet to the same anchor as Rainbow.


Just to the right of the Wimpy-Gilman Ridge look for the nice crack through some dirty rock to the anchor of Rainbow.


Regular rack mostly hand size.

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By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Mar 28, 2011
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

Did this today and have a couple thoughts. Upper corner is actually pretty fun, but the start is terrible, and the rock is a little chossy. I popped a piece off while climbing, and so did the person who followed me. Not a highly recommended route but it was enjoyable.

I also owe a thank you to Tim Mijal for followed me up this :)
By Jay Morse
From: Hooksett, New Hampshire
Oct 12, 2013

I had a foot a little bigger than a golf ball break while I was pretty runout on this. Luckily my hands were good and I caught myself, and the rock didn't hit anyone below. Be really careful climbing routes like this! Also your rope runs over some sharp ledges getting lowered from this. I don't recommend it for anyone.

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