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Mountain Rose
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Mountain Rose 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: John Aughinbaugh, Mike Darrah, 1990
Fixed Hardware: 1 Lead Bolt [details]
Page Views: 417
Submitted By: Greg Barnes on Aug 1, 2015

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Mountain Rose.

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  • Description 

    Mountain Rose is a varied crack/face route with good interesting climbing. It is a bit runout getting to the bolt (although it may well be possible to continue up the crack then traverse back to the bolt). There is a very slopey/balancy crux after the bolt. You can wander to the top past the anchors for Grizzly Rose, but it's doubtful many will do that. There may be a harder (contrived) crux up high if you stay left and don't go to (or past) the Grizzly Rose anchors.

    Location 

    It is on the far left of the crag, it is the obvious crack line up below roofs, starting 15' left of Grizzly Rose.

    Protection 

    Thin - 3" cams, stoppers are not so useful due to the roof placements (although you could place one at the lip of the second roof). It has 1 bolt, replaced 8/1/15. Currently there's also a fixed #0 TCU that doesn't look like it's going anywhere.


    Comments on Mountain Rose Add Comment
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    By Greg Barnes
    Aug 1, 2015

    The bolt was a rusty 3/8" Lok-bolt design (e.g. powers.com/product_06160.php ) with the threads not quite fully engaged on the nut (perhaps someone had replaced the original thinner hanger with the Metolius hanger that was on it). It turned out the bolt was bent as well. Sketchy! This design of bolt is very weak in the 3/8" size even when new.

    The bolt was provided by the ASCA, please donate and help replace old bolts! safeclimbing.org
    By Mark E Dixon
    From: Sprezzatura, Someday
    Jul 26, 2016

    Cleaner and more solid than it looks. Worth getting on if you have a small rack of cams along.
    By T G
    From: Colorado
    Jul 9, 2017
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

    Climbing the roof line and pulling the roof are worth doing. The climbing after the bolt becomes much less worthwhile, dirty, and quite slabby with minimal protection up high. There's no bolt anchor for this route, so either belay your follower off a tree at the top, or traverse right to the anchor at the top of the adjacent Grizzly Rose route. The descent gully to the left is loose and not that fun.
    By pfwein
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 27, 2017
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    I'm reluctant to say a route is safe, but it seemed to me that gear is plentiful and solid. I would recommend nuts for anyone apprehensive, as they seemed extra bomber, and a bomber #3 C4 in the crack over the roof protects getting to the bolt.

    TLDR: I'm not sure I see why this would be rated PG-13 or even PG really (unless the standard for G is a continuous bomber crack).

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