REI Community
Mount Sir Donald

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Northwest Ridge T 
Uto Peak Southwest Ridge T 

Mount Sir Donald Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 10,774'
Location: 51.2632, -117.4325 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 14,185
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Peter Spindloe on Jan 9, 2008
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Mount Sir Donald Map contour interval:100 meters ...


Mount Sir Donald is is one of the premier destinations for Mountaineering in BC, especially alpine rock climbing. Even without a Fifty Classics route (the Northwest Ridge) it would be popular as it presents a beautiful profile from the highway. This profile is very much reminiscent of the classic shots of the Matterhorn.

While there are other routes on the peak, up to about 5.9, and all sides, 95% of the ascents or more are on the Northwest ridge.

Unlike many alpine rock climbs in the BC interior, this one requires no glacier travel and while many do bivy at the base, it can be done in a day car-to-car.

First ascent of the peak was by Emil Huber, Carl Sulzer, and Harry Cooper in 1890 via the SW face.

Getting There 

Mount Sir Donald is located in Glacier National Park (the Canadian one) along the Trans-Canada Highway (Hwy. 1). Once in the park, look for the Illecillewaet campground. The trail to the Sir Donald-Uto col starts here. Info about Glacier National park here and information about the Alpine Club of Canada's Wheeler Hut here

Excellent map of Glacier and Mt. Revelstoke Parks here

It's about a 630km drive from Vancouver or 350km drive from Calgary. It could be accessed from the US via a variety of routes aiming more-or-less north from either Coeur d'Alene or Spokane (about 560km or 350miles from either).

Climbing Season

For the Columbia Mountains area.

Weather station 4.6 miles from here

2 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Mount Sir Donald

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Mount Sir Donald:
Northwest Ridge   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c X     Trad, Alpine, 2400'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Mount Sir Donald

Featured Route For Mount Sir Donald
Rock Climbing Photo: The NW Ridge looking head-on from the descent off ...

Northwest Ridge 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c North America : Canada : ... : Mount Sir Donald
This is one of best long moderate rock routes anywhere. Inclusion in the Fifty Classics was well warranted, but certainly hasn't made it crowded. When we did it, we were the first in eight days according to the summit register and the weather had been great for weeks. A bear-related closure of the approach trail might have had something to do with it though.Many people bivy just below the Sir Donald-Uto col, but the hike can be done in under three hours, so you can time it to reach the route...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Mount Sir Donald Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Sir D from across the valley.  The classic NW ridg...
Sir D from across the valley. The classic NW ridg...

Comments on Mount Sir Donald Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About