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Mount Oscar

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ben Zen Send T 
Bipolar Brain Flush T 
Bob Loblaw aka ":Bob Bla Bla" T 
Bucking Bronco Arete T 
Caveat Emptor S 
Charismatic Mime T 
Coffee Achievers S 
Crescent aka Oscar Mayer T 
Crescents - per Skyes T 
Doh - Crescent Direct Finish T,S 
Moose Spirit T 
Oscar the Grouch T 
Oscar's Last Stand T 
Perez Highway, The T 
Randys Super Fine Triplishes T 
Raven Ridge T 
Syko Bubba : Caveat Emptor's Direct Finish  S 
Three Bubbas Trilogy S 
Touch of Grey T 

Mount Oscar Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 44.24859, -71.48615 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 13,636
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Jul 12, 2008
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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10/6/16 view of the Zealand River Valley from Mt O...


SW face . Semi-secluded but with an easy approach from the Zealand area. About 10 routes put up I believe by Uwe Schneider in the late 80's. Good rock, many bolts; older ones have mostly been replaced. Faces southwest and gets good sun (esp. in afternoon) in late winter (Mar-April).

Jon Skyes's "The Notches" ( contains excellent coverage of this cliff. 37 climbs are listed including many newer routes and variations, excellent photos (esp. of STARTs), and routes not included herein. Be WARNED, I quote from page 83 of "The Notches": " Be prepared for stiff ratings."
I have added FA info and made some corrections to routes here in mountainproject on the basis of that reference.

There are two Mt Oscar climbing areas, as shown by the excellent photo by Jamie Cunningham. The area described herein is the left-side, a.k.a. the "lower" (or perhaps "northern", or even "western") area.

The right side was developed by the climbers and guides operating out of the Breton Woods Mt Washington Hotel. At one time you could purchase, for about $3, a small, 4-5 page guide at the front desk of the Ski Resort (NOT the Hotel!). This cliff, which is East of the main cliff described herein, is (unfortunately) often referred to as "West" (or "Western") since from the ski area's point of view it is on what they call "West Mountain". In the summer chairlift rides ($5 per person, as of 2017) are offered. From the top of the chairlift the cliff/slab is about a 15-20 min, mostly downhill, walk. Follow the marked walking trail towards West Mountain, and about 1/2 way there the "Rock Climber's only" path splits off left. It's actually a quite enjoyable slab, excellent for training, bolted belays and many climbs have bolts but a small trad rack is also suggested. A single 60m will usually get you down from bolted belay/rap station to the next, or the ground. Don't forget to be back before they close the chairlift, or hike back down to your car.

As pointed out on Jamie's photo, there's a "middle" area that seems yet(?) to be developed.

Getting There 

Usual Approach: Drive (or walk/ski if road is closed) south on the Zealand Road from Rt 302 for 1.0 mile to the parking lot for Sugarloaf Trail. [Day-use parking fee*] There is a gated fire service road on the East side of the road.
Walk (or Mtn Bike) the forest service road southeast for about 20 min. A few minutes after views of Sugarloaf become visible behind you and across the valley, you come to a wide open clearing (I think the 2nd such clearing, see PHOTO). Look for a small cairn on the left; take the now-growing-over logging road to the left for about 100yds and look for the obvious trail on the left. 5-10 min. to the base, arriving at the climb "Crescent".

GPS Coordinates are set to this location. (base at approx. Crescent )

Re the fee*: It's $3/day (2015) or any of several annual($25) or lifetime passes($10 lifetime if 62 or older). The fee applies to any parking here, on both sides of the road. If you don't have a pass and don't want to pay, there's a pull out on the right ('west') in another 1/4 mile that's free; just don't block the gate. This "free parking" also works for Sugarloaf...just walk up the fire-road to the right until the Sugarloaf trail crosses at a 90-degree angle.

Climbing Season

Weather station 2.3 miles from here

19 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Mount Oscar

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Mount Oscar:
Crescent aka Oscar Mayer   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Bob Loblaw aka ":Bob Bla Bla"   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   
Oscar the Grouch   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad   
The Perez Highway   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 210'   
Caveat Emptor   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
Bipolar Brain Flush   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   
Moose Spirit   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Randys Super Fine Triplishes   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Oscar's Last Stand   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   
Syko Bubba : Caveat Emptor's Direct Finish    5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Coffee Achievers   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Three Bubbas Trilogy   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Mount Oscar

Featured Route For Mount Oscar
Rock Climbing Photo: Me on the upper section of Coffee Achievers. Photo...

Coffee Achievers 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c  New Hampshire : WM: Zealand Road / Notch : Mount Oscar
Climb a steep slab and water groove after climbing either R.S.F.T or French roast variations. After climbing either variation, stand on top of a small ledge. Clip the right bolt and make hard moves into a shallow groove. Good foot work will get you through the tough sections and to a happy slot for your tips. Optional micro cam. Continue to the top via rounded edges to only find yourself stumped as you try to reach the anchor....[more]   Browse More Classics in New Hampshire

Photos of Mount Oscar Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Overview photo of Mt. Oscar. Showing the right sid...
BETA PHOTO: Overview photo of Mt. Oscar. Showing the right sid...
Rock Climbing Photo: 1.	Crescent 5.7  This nice 5.7 starts at the obvio...
BETA PHOTO: 1. Crescent 5.7 This nice 5.7 starts at the obvio...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mt. Oscar's lower Main Wall and upper 'Bre...
BETA PHOTO: Mt. Oscar's lower Main Wall and upper 'Bre...
Rock Climbing Photo: 15 minute walk along a grassy old logging road lea...
BETA PHOTO: 15 minute walk along a grassy old logging road lea...
Rock Climbing Photo: When views of Sugarloaf open up, you're close (tak...
BETA PHOTO: When views of Sugarloaf open up, you're close (tak...
Rock Climbing Photo: A beautiful sunset while walking back to the car.
A beautiful sunset while walking back to the car.
Rock Climbing Photo: Wasabi Groove, 5.8.
BETA PHOTO: Wasabi Groove, 5.8.
Rock Climbing Photo: Another shot of Charismatic Mime.
BETA PHOTO: Another shot of Charismatic Mime.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mt. Oscar slabs
Mt. Oscar slabs
Rock Climbing Photo: Mt. Oscar

Comments on Mount Oscar Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 14, 2015
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Aug 18, 2009
Great cliff with fun climbing.
By burlap submariner
Sep 22, 2009
there are much more than ten routes now, most of the development has been from sykes/cunningham and crew, some really stunning lines.
By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
May 23, 2010
The approach for this crag is very easy, I believe it has been altered since John's description from recent logging activity. Drive down the Zealand Notch road to a parking lot on the right just before a bridge. Walk down the gated logging road on the left side of the road, just before the parking lot. Look for a small rock cairn in a clearing on the left side of the dirt road. Follow this trail to were it comes to the cliff at the base of Crescent.
This is a truly awesome place to crag on fun moderates. It is very user friendly with generous use of bolts. It took me a little while to get use to seeing some bolts where, from time spent at cathedral, I would not have expected them.
A rudimentary guide for this area can be found
By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
May 23, 2010
So the link just takes you to the forums I guess. From there go to the forum " New Rock Routes" and find "Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mount Oscar."
By patrick donahue
From: Gunnison, Colorado
Feb 13, 2011
hey so i read on that this is off the back side of bretton woods. is it off there west mountain and is there anyway to gain acces from the top of west mountain at bretton woods?
By patrick donahue
From: Gunnison, Colorado
Feb 14, 2011

rest of the routes are here and you can find more with beta photos in the forum section under "new rock route" look for mt. oscar
By Patrick Feeney
From: hartland vt
May 8, 2011
what town is this area in ,having some trouble finding that out
By Kai Troester
From: Pepperell, MA
Aug 23, 2011
The GPS coordinates are 44.24938,-71.482987
By Robert Hall
From: North Conway, NH
Sep 27, 2013
There are really TWO "Mt. Oscar's". The "USUAL Mt Oscar" is the one off the Zealand Road, with most of the 5.7 - 5.10 bolted routes, and the woods road approach past the old "Moose Heaven". (now, thankfully, unused by the State of NH).
The Breton Woods Hotel guides have developed a more slabby cliff off the backside of West Mt. in the ski area. Unfortunately this is also called "Mt Oscar". The normal approach is to take the (free in summer) chairlift ride on the "Bethlehem" quad, walk up to the col just south of West Mt. (near top of Zealand Quad chairlift) and then hike down 15min. to the base. A few nice beginner slab and easy crack routes. The ski lodge at the base sells a one-page photo guide for $3.
I do not know if the two cliffs are actually connected, but one guide told me the "Zealand Mt Oscar" could be reached in "another 20-30 minutes, so I'd guess they are separate.
By Jeffrey.LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Sep 27, 2013
I wish they'd just refer to the slabs behind Breton Woods as the "West Wall". However, it's all connected and you can walk along the bottom of that entire cliff band to reach the main Oscar walls.

Click here for topo (since using an img tag screws up the website)
By Robert Hall
From: North Conway, NH
Oct 29, 2013
I guess only the "administrator" can do something as simple as moving a climb from "unsorted" to "sorted", and then sort them in proper position. Since the trail comes up at Cresent, this cliff is a classic "left to right" sort. DUH !
Try the website "" for good descripions of other routes on Oscar. For the record, the order (left to right) is:
Unknown 5.9
Unknown #2 5.9
Ben Zen Send
Moose Sprit 5.10a
Moose Meat (Rancid) 5.10a
...Tripleishes 5.10a
Coffee Achievers 5.11a
French Roast Variation 5.11a
Bipolar Brain Flush 5.9
Bipolar Brain Fart Variation 5.8R
Oscar's Last Stand 5.10a
Bob Loblaw 5.7+
Unknown 5.10a
Ugly Dirty 5.7
Vegetated Gulley 5.1 Uhg!
Cunningham's Crusade 5.8
CC Direct Start Variation 5.6X
Three Bubba's Triology 5.11a
Unknown 5.8+
Vegetated Line (big right-facing inside corner)
Charismatic Mime 5.8
Broken Clown 5.6
(Perez) Highway 5.9
Bucking Bronco Arete 5.8
Raven Groove 5.6
Unknown 5.7
Wasabe Groove 5.8
Raven Ridge 5.6
Cruising the Great Corner 5.7
By M Sprague
From: New England
Oct 30, 2013
Thanks, Rob. I moved the ones that are on your list. Should we have a main 'Mt. Oscar' heading and then "'Main Cliff' and 'West Wall" sub areas?
By Jeffrey.LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Oct 30, 2013
West Wall is such a misnomer. It's to the east of everything listed here.
By Jamie Cunningham
From: Suncook, New Hampshire
Nov 19, 2013
See Beta Foto Topo and match descriptions below.

1. Crescent 5.7
This nice 5.7 starts at the obvious right facing flake and crack start (defines boundary between two walls) then trends up and left and finishes on slabs above and out of sight. There is a bolted direct finish to this climb as well called Doh! (think Homer Simpson).
FA: Joe and Judy Perez

Variation 1a: Direct Finish 5.11a
FA: Jon Sykes &

2. ___?_______ 5.9 75’
Climb the center bolted face to two bolt belay.

Five bolts to the top.
FA: Jon Sykes & Mike Lee
FFA: Chris Marks & Jon Sykes Spring 2010

3. _____?______ 5.9 110’
Slab/face with series of bolts leading to 15 foot crack leading to a white prow. Crack converts to a left facing corner that defines the left side of the prow.

4. Ben Zen Send 5.8 100’
Start at left facing flake that leads to a left ascending diagonal crack. Traverse 10’ on this crack and climb face above that links three intermittent crescent cracks to the top. Can seep after rainy days.
FA: Ben Mirkin & Jon Sykes Spring 2009

5. Moose Spirit 5.10- 120’
Right facing flake (to right of Ben Zen Send). Climb flake through overlap to bolt. Climb straight up to 25’ exit crack.
History: Jon Sykes put in the bolts believing that he was doing the original ascent. Ben Savage and Bill Kieler claimed an earlier ascent.
ACB: Ben Savage & Bill Kieler
By Robert Hall
From: North Conway, NH
Jul 8, 2014
Was in here 7-6-14 and noted many, if not all, of the older 3/8" bolts have been replaced with new 3/8" S.S. bolts on many of the climbs. (but, as far as I could tell no additional bolts were added to pre-existing routes) Someone has put "mucho-$'s" and time in making this cliff a much safer place.
See the NEClimbs website for more detailed info on this cliff and its routes.
By David Powers
Aug 26, 2015
Mount Oscar was written up in climbing magazine back in the early 90's. I dont have the issue but I do have a post-it note with original route names. These would all be left of Coffee Achievers.
Oscar Mayers 5.6
Caveat Emptor 5.8+
Touch of Grey 5.9
Crescents 5.7
Dont Worry 5.9+
Sight of Line 5.8
Coffee Achievers 5.10+
I assume Caveat Emptor and Touch of Grey are the two unnamed classic lines right as you approach the cliff. Both used to have fewer bolts than they do now by the way.
By Rob Albert
Sep 14, 2015
Lots and lots of routes here. The slabs are fun, the cracks are sharp, and it was all super fun. Actually, wait, I mean, um, this place is terrible and you should all stay away! As always, thanks so much to the developers! Still lots of potential FAs here.

Notes: the directions here are spot on: park 1mi up the road on the right, but then walk back down the road to a gated forest road (on the left on the drive in) and the approach is obvious. The cairn on the left side of the logging road is tiny, so keep an eye out for it.

A 70m rope is MANDATORY. The climbs we did were mostly 35m and a 60m would (obviously) not have made it down. We mostly stayed near the main area, so YMMV.

All of the climbs we did were mixed - you needed gear on each, and they are longer than they look from the ground.

I plan on going back soon!

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