Mount Magazine State Park Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Sign at the trailhead from the parking lot.
Arkansas crag. Lots of sport and trad ranging from 5.6 to 5.12+. 90+ developed routes. Tallest routes top out at 80'. Many can be top roped. Camping is available with water and electricity hookups for $14 a night. Primitive sites are not available. A new lodge is also open if you want to stay in a hotel room.
Near Paris Arkansas. Go to the top of Mount Magazine on the South Side. There is a visitor center that you need to register at before climbing. They should be able to give you very specific directions. Park at the Hang Glider Launch Site. Walk west untill you see a sign that marks the climbers trail. Follow this until you find a good tree to rap over the edge down the wall.
Climbing Season For the All Locations area.
Weather station 3.3 miles from here
21 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Mount Magazine State Park
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Mount Magazine State Park
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Mount Magazine State Park:
Featured Route For Mount Magazine State Park
Right to Flight/ The Nose 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Arkansas
: Mount Magazine State Park
: Crag Central
A mega classic for sure! As overhanging as this one is the climbing never gets as difficult as it looks. It is committing and scary on lead but it protects well and the holds are all there. Starts off climbing up easy terrain up to the roof. Plug in some cams or whatever and climb out on the diving board and go for the top. Very fun!! If you fall on the final head wall you will catch major air. - NOTE- It is hard to clean this route when the leader tops out and is best to anchor for the top and ...[more] Browse More Classics in Arkansas
By Wayne Monnett
From: Englewood, CO
Apr 7, 2011
Passed through the area coming from CO and loved the rock. Didn't have time to bust out most of the area but there is a BUNCH of new routes someone has bolted up, real new real nice, and if anyone local to the are has time it would be awesome to see a little bit more info of the are come up
By Curly Zach
Nov 4, 2012
We passed through this area on the way back (sorta) to DFW from Sam's Throne. We had a great short time here and climbed Junior Achievement and Cruise Control. Here is the beta: The rock climber's trail sign in the lodge parking lot APPEARS TO POINT TO AN ABOVE CRAG TRAIL THAT DEAD ENDS! An arrow would be nice on the sign. The trail actually is to the right of the sign and descends a staircase like feature that is very hard to see from ground level. The guidebook doesn't mention this. We ended up with an epic approach, consisting of 2 tree rappels, one of which over a ledge.