Mount Hull - Lower SW Face (Oroville) Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Lower SW Face of Hull overview viewed from Hwy 97 ...
|climbing is on public land, parking and access is not MORE INFO >>>|
The SW face of Mt Hull, along the east side of the northern Okanogan Valley, is a huge open area with many distinct cliffs and potential for thousands of routes.
Most of these cliffs are on public lands (BLM and Forest Service), yet all the access is via private lands (except for the public Whistler Canyon trailhead and the county gravel pit to the north). There are several possible access points - the shorter more direct ones are by permission of landowner, on an individual basis only. Currently the only recommended public access is from the north from Whistler Canyon Trailhead (turn right off of trail #100 after about 3/4 mile and head through the South Canyon for about a mile), or from the County Gravel pit about a 1/2 south of Whistler Canyon Trailhead.
These cliffs are dry and open (extensively burned in the early part of the century), and range in elevation from 1300 to 2600'. There is abundant wildlife in the area, but watch out for rattle snakes
from mid April to mid October!
Currently there are about 100 routes (mostly sport, some mixed, and a few trad), on fine quality gneiss, ranging from 5.2 to 5.11+, between 50' and 2 pitches long. Generally the bolting ethic calls for using gear when available and safe, but there are some exceptions... The route grading (especially in the lower grades) tends to follow old school standards, rather than newer and softer trends. There is also an abundance of loose rock around the existing routes so helmets are advisable
- Note to all climbers even though this is a somewhat remote area and off the beaten path, please do your best to minimize your impact and presence; pack it in-pack it out, and leave no trace. Potential route developers, please respect local etiquette and don't place bolts next to possible gear placements. Ideally make any bolts or top anchors camouflaged, use stainless steel hardware as much as possible, and don't mix your metals. Any comments and input on existing or new routes is much appreciated.
- Note - a key to route descriptions;
NAME; grade and quality (* - good, ** - very good, *** - great, **** - world class classic); (length); type of pro. used - G = natural/gear, F = fixed (b - bolt, p - piton, fn - fixed nut), M = mixed; TR = toprope, R = runout/dangerous, PG = scary/risky; Description; FA (first ascent date), GU = ground up ascent, TR = top rope ascent.
The established areas include (listed from the south to north); High and Away Crag
- Due east of The Far East on the Upper Bench (below the huge upper East Wall) (undeveloped) The Far East
- Remote wall east of Big Butte with great rock and the best route at Hull ("Lost World"). The Middle East
- On the way to the Far East from Big Butte (undeveloped) Big Butte
- A wide variety of easy to moderate routes, sport, mixed and trad. Lower Wall
- A short pleasant crag with a few great routes on uniquely featured rock. Bonsai Crag
- Easy access, short and a bit crumbly but steep and fun. West Wall
- Moderate sport and mixed climbing, in a great location The Nose
- Easy to moderate climbing, sport, mixed and trad, with a short approach. OTID Rock
- "Oroville Tonasket Irrigation District" parcel just beside and north of the main orchard parking area. Close and fun, but also not public land.... 5.13/Weeping Wall
- The shortest approach and the hardest routes
(mostly sport). Boundary Wall
- (undeveloped) Hidden Valley
- Isolated with great rock and mostly hard sport climbs Flying Pig Wall
- Easy climbs next to Turtle Island. A good shaded beginner crag. Turtle Island
- Beautiful location mostly moderate climbs, sport, mixed and trad. Tortuga
- The west end of Turtle Island. Far Tortuga
- Oldest routes on Hull (pre-fire development) Gravel Pit Wall
- The lower west facing wall just east of the gravel pit. Easy access.
Located about 12 miles North of Tonasket on Hwy 97.
There are several possible access points - the shorter more direct ones are by permission of landowner, on an individual basis only - the only public access is from the north (from Whistler Canyon Trailhead, turning right off of trail #100 after about 3/4 mile and heading through the South Canyon for about a mile to the north end of the SW face ("Far Tortuga"), or from the County Gravel pit about a mile south of Whistler Canyon Trailhead, which reduces the approach by about two miles);
The first area developed after the fire, and one of the most prominent cliffs as you drive from Tonasket, is BIG BUTTE (aka BIG BUTT) The large S and W facing cliff at mid level (just west of the unburned fir and pine valley), prominently visible NE of the fruit stand (just north of the new native smoke shack/gas station). Approach time about 20 minute. TURTLE ISLAND is a further 10 minute hike N, about 1/2 mile from the base of BIG BUTTE W face. It has a variety of rock in a lovely unburned forest. FAR TORTUGA is located another couple of minutes walk north around the west face. BOUNDARY WALL is the long W facing cliff between TURTLE ISLAND and BIG BUTTE, with HIDDEN VALLEY is on its East side, while BENCH ROCK (the higher large west-facing cliff) is about ¼ mile further East.
Climbing Season For the Okanogan area.
Weather station 2.9 miles from here
81 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',14],['2 Stars',46],['1 Star',18],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Mount Hull - Lower SW Face (Oroville)
VENUS OF OKANOGAN 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Washington
: ... : Big Butte - South Face
VENUS OF OKANOGAN 5.7 **** 90' M (9b)Begin 5' left of the Why Raincoats Are Yellow crack and climb directly up. Pass the short lower diagonal corner on the right and climb the face above, then head left for the arete (avoiding the Raincoats route completely), 2 chain anchors (brown) are above (10' 3rd class scramble) just below the top lip. Several medium and small cams are needed throughout between the bolts. Excellent...[more] Browse More Classics in Washington
Mark beginning "Terrapin Station" at Tur...
View south down the Okanogan from the top of the W...
BETA PHOTO: Mt Hull (SW Face) - South End
California Mtn Sheep seen from the orchard parking...
A large group of California Big Horn Sheep - on th...
BETA PHOTO: Turtle Island and Hidden Valley from the top of th...
End of the day view down the Okanogan Valley
Jenny on "Isle of Everywhere" (5.8 ***),...
Jenny starting up "Magic Theatre" (5.8 *...
Spring flowers on Mt Hull's lower SW Face
Mt Hull's upper slope of the lower SW Face
View South down Okanogan Valley from lower Mt Hull...
Mark on first ascent of "Venus of Okanogan&qu...
Climber on "SE Buttress Left Side" (5.5 ...
Looking north to Turtle Island from the top of Wes...
BETA PHOTO: Mt Hull - overview
Big Horn Sheep atop West Wall
High and Away Crag - one of several crags (so-far ...
BETA PHOTO: Big Butte Topo
BETA PHOTO: 5.13/Weeping Wall from the SW
BETA PHOTO: Mark in the middle of Butteous Maximus (5.7+**, on...
Turtle Island from the top of West Wall
BETA PHOTO: Mt Hull (SW Face) - North End
Show All 24
Only the first 24 are shown above.