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Mount Blackburn

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North/North West Ridge 

Mount Blackburn Rock Climbing 

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Elevation: 16,390'
Location: 61.73537, -142.8253 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,551
Administrators: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Taylor-B. on Oct 26, 2013
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BETA PHOTO: The king ski line of the Wrangell Mountains. The N...


At 16,390ft, Mount Blackburn is the crown jewel of the Wrangell Mountains. The peak is heavily guarded by large icefalls and heavily crevassed glaciers, along with its’ height, the peak is a magnet for adverse weather.

Mount Blackburn has colorful history. The "first ascent" of the east peak or Kennedy Peak, which is a few hundred feet shorter than the west peak, was first climbed in 1912 by an expedition led by Dora Keen. Dora Keen and party used dog sleds to travel 30 miles up the Kennicott Glacier from the copper mine of Kennicott. They ascended the south central icefall over the course of 30 days, to accomplish one of the greatest mountaineering objectives in that era. At the time of Dora Keens ascent, the true summit elevation of Mount Blackburn was unknown. The routes out of the Kennicott Glacier are no longer doable due to climate change. When glaciers melt and the thickness decreases, the ice is more effected by the terrain in which it runs over, causing very broken up icefalls and glaciers.

Getting There 

Fly in from Chitna or McCarthy.

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 21.2 miles from here

1 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Mount Blackburn
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at the North Ridge from BC at 7,000ft. ...

North/North West Ridge AI2-3 X  Alaska : Wrangell St. Elias NP : ... : Mount Blackburn
Charter a ski plane from Ultima Thule Outfitters to drop you off at 7,000ft on the Nabesna Glacier at the base of the mountain. There is a LZ at 9,500ft, but that is cheating! This area is at the head of the largest interior valley glacier on the continent, so be prepared for some weather. The crux of the route may be getting from 7,500ft to 9,500ft. This section ascends an ice fall with monster crevasses and is exposed to avalanches and serac fall strafing down the 7,000ft north face of Mount B...[more]   Browse More Classics in Alaska

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