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YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a X

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a X [details]
FA: Mike Diesen
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,713
Submitted By: Mike Diesen on Sep 14, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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Karen with the onsight of Mounds.



Climb over a series of mounds to a scary looking block. Carefully pull over this block staying slightly left of the bolts to the top. This block is large and looks like it could come off so be very careful. The roof above wants to push you off. Step right and pull over the roof (crux). Now climb the series of overhanging mounds above to the anchors.


Right of Gobstopper. Climbs the center of the alcove to the top.



Photos of Mounds Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Janelle Pierce on lead pulling the last move to th...
BETA PHOTO: Janelle Pierce on lead pulling the last move to th...

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 14, 2016
By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 29, 2009

I had a great time at Sweet Rock, but this route was the glaring exception. The middle section is overhanging choss, and it wouldn't surprise me if anything from brick-sized chunks to an entire section of the wall came off despite the best efforts of a careful climber. In my opinion, the route is dangerous and likely can't be made safe.

This comment is not intended as a criticism (overall, I think the developers have done a great job on this cliff), but rather as a warning to future climbers.
By Casey Erin
From: San Diego, CA
Feb 27, 2010

Any word on the giant X in chalk about half way up? It's on a big fat piece of stone that would be a great hold but we all avoided for fear it might be loose.
By joedeltron
Mar 15, 2010

A layback flake peeled off my lead climber recently and the rest of the route is definately suspect. Super fun but it still has cleaning to do but I think eventually it will be clean and safe. Watch the rock with the x on it, don't even touch it
By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 16, 2010

If you like bad rock you can get your fix in a million places in So. Az, but why put up a moderate sport route through crap rock? At least one person has already gotten hurt as a result, and it has the potential to be a lot worse.
By Alex McIntyre
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 7, 2011

This route has literally at least 3 TV sized blocks waiting to come off...
By Paul Davidson
Apr 28, 2011

Charles has it nailed above. I couldn't agree more.

When a guy with over 30 years experience guiding in the Tetons leads a pitch and then calls down that it's a dangerous pile, he ends up rapping and cleaning the route because not one of us had any interest in even a TR on it.

Too bad, it's a great position on the wall but not all rock is meant to be climbed.

Truthfully, the bolts should be pulled before someone gets killed.
A route like this has no place at a sport cliff. There are plenty of places to get your freak on with a head lead. But not at a clip and go area. It makes no sense. There's a good potential for a new leader to get on this with a tragic result.
By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Apr 29, 2011

Mike, here's my $0.02. If i remember correctly, we're talking about the 15' or so foot section of poor rock right in the middle/deepest part of the route. Go up and pry loose everything you can. Once it's absolutely safe from loose rock and if there's still enough left to climb, leave it. If you just can't dig down to good rock, maybe you should take it down. I'm playing devil's advocate here but think about it this way: if someone get's hurt this weekend from rockfall on this route, how would you feel? We've heard lots of votes for either cleaning up the big, obvious death blocks or removing it and some heavy hitters have chimed in with their feelings on it.
By azclimbingrocks
Apr 29, 2011

Sometimes you just have to let go of the attachment to routes.
Accept that you have put up plenty of good fun climbs and the occasional bummer. That route always looked really good to me but after these comments, I won't go near it.

Like Daryl says, how would you feel...
No reason to take this stuff personally Mike. It's not like you went out of your way to find and bolt some choss. That 5.7 of yours off to the left is great fun, well thought out, nicely bolted, etc...

I don't know about pulling the bolts because someone else will end up putting a route up there. It's too big a piece of blank rock. But certainly clean off anything loose.
By Mike Diesen
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
May 4, 2011

I appreciate everyones feedback. Some routes are great fun and some are too scary to go near. As individual climbers we all get to decide which routes fit into which category.
By Mike Diesen
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
May 4, 2011

Note the route description and rating have been updated until I can get back out there to inspect the route further.
By b-rox
Jan 29, 2012

I thought this was a great route but the mortar added to the death block did not inspire confidence. A little work with prybar and hammer might be the ticket
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Oct 28, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This is a great route, too bad for the loose rock, otherwise this one would get 3 stars. This is the best line on Sweet Rock, imo, in terms of movement.

I don't give this one a safety rating; the route is well protected and a lead fall is therefore not likely to result in injury. (I suppose a lead climber could be injured by a block that has come off, during the fall) Your belayer, however, needs to belay well off to the side and should wear a helmet. In that sense, the route can be R/X for the belayer.
By Russ Walling
Jan 1, 2015

Fairly chossy POS as far as routes go. The bad mortar job holding on the TV sized block is a sloppy joke. If anything comes off, people are going to get hurt on either end of the rope.
By Luke Bertelsen
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 2, 2015

Is it fixable?

Seems like people have know for awhile that this route is a ticking time bomb. The FA could take care of it, if possible, or it could just get chopped so we don't have to read about a rockfall accident at one of the few pedestrian sport climbing locations in the Stronghold.

By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Jan 2, 2015

Agree w Luke, especially since this area attracts climbers who will not have a clue about what they're yarding on.

Unless anchored short, the belayer standing to the side is not a foolproof solution; it depends on the timing of the block's fall vs leader's fall, weight differentials between climber and belayer, etc..It is quite possible for the belayer to get pulled into the path of the block.

It's not likely, but a block could also sever the rope.
By Tim Heid
From: AZ
Jan 19, 2016
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X

Another vote to just chop it - Fun moves, but those blocks you pull on are pretty large and super chossy. Someone is going to pull them and a belayer and/or others nearby are going to get it bad. The mortared block wasn't really very inspiring either.

Other than this route - I really enjoyed the climbing and very thankful to the efforts the FA's put in to make this a great roadside crag!
By Mike Diesen
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Jan 19, 2016

I'm surprised to hear someone from Scottsdale commenting on rock quality. :) I've taken a crowbar to that block and couldn't get it off. I plan on trying again with a larger crow bar. Although I climb in a lot of areas with a lot worse rock I would feel better if I could get that block off of there. The rest of the climb is pretty solid.
By Sam Thompson
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 14, 2016

Our group of four all climbed this until I checked MP afterwards to see the X rating. The block in question definitely gave us all pause, but I never got the heeby jeeby feeling I get over really questionable flakes. For sure risky, but up to individual comfort levels. A shame too, since this was probably one of my favorite climbs of the day, really great moves and sustained over hanging jug pulls makes this a blast.

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